2005 Harvest Moon RRV Pinot Noir

[dananne]

On our August trip to Sonoma, we spend a few hours one afternoon visiting with Randy Pitts, the winemaker who pretty much runs the show at the small family winery. He is a young, enthusiastic guy, and his philosophy really runs counter to the prevailing grain. He ranted in a provocative and highly entertaining way about rising alc levels, and what he sees as the flaws of wines produced by overripe grapes. He favors picking earlier, preserving better natural acidity, and getting wines that are better to pair with food. His Pinot grapes are picked at an almost comically low 21 brix. What is produced might be seen as one of the closest approximations of a traditional Burgundy wine.

We decanted 30 minutes before 1st pour. It showed a very clear and bright ruby color -- almost bordering on firehouse red. Aromas of cherry and strawberry are dominant, and there is the faintest whiff of cinnamon and vanilla. On first taste, the wine showed a bit green and perhaps underripe, with a very light, ethereal body. It would almost seem to confirm that the grapes were picked too soon. However, after an hour, it really began to come into its own. The tartness vanished, the fruit began to shine, and the underripe first impression disappeared, as the wine began to gradually build in intensity. After two hours, it turned into a a stunning and remarkable powerhouse, while keeping the feathery light body. I don't know if I've ever tasted anything that packed such a vivid punch, yet remained so light, delicate, and feminine in style. Amazing is the only word to describe the transformation. The acidity made it so vibrant and fresh, and it carried the fruit so purely, elegantly, and demurely. If the wine were a woman, she'd have silky hair, a perfect complexion, and a slinky black dress. She wouldn't be flashy, yet she would capture every eye in the room. Think more Audrey Hepburn than Angelina Jolie. With the intensity of red fruit flavors and gorgeous natural acidity, this thing will likely age so gracefully that it'll go 10 years easy. In fact, I'd love to taste it after 20 years, but we don't have enough bottles in the cellar nor the self-control to find out. Here's the kicker -- the whole thing carries an alc of 12.3%. Yes, you read that right. 12.3% Simply stunning. I don't think I've ever tried a domestic Pinot Noir that it could be compared to. We paid about $32 for it at the winery, which only produced about 200 cases. One of the best and most unique wines we've had in a very, very long time. We like Loring, Sea Smoke, etc., and we're on those mailing lists. This wine is nothing like those. Moreover, the style could only be described as controversial. Some people might flat out hate it. However, it does make a delicious and compelling argument that Pinot Noir can be handled in a completely different way and still make a stunning wine. I can't say enough about this wine, and how unique it is. I strongly urge Pinot fans to check it out if they ever get the chance, if only to try something so different from the usual domestic take on the grape.