Paso Robles Cellars Merlot

[Innkeeper]

1998 Paso Robles Cellers (a.k.a. Tobin James), Paso Robles, Merlot ($28). Not your mother's merlot. Not TJ's journeyman merlot (Made in the Shade)either; another bottle of which unfortunately showed up in their fall shipment. This one came in the spring '01 shipment, I think, because the mold on the label looks like it has been in the cellar close to two years.

It is one of the rare varietal merlots I've tried having more than two dimensions. In addition to the plums and oak, it showed gobs of red fruit up front, concentration of fruit, and smooth tannin across the palate. All followed with a lovely finish.

Matched with grillpanned rib eye steak, green beans almondine, and rolls from Sam's Club. All very nice. Did I like the wine? Yes. Would I go out and buy another for $28? No.