Some nice American Sangioveses

[Bucko]

1999 Walla Walla Vintners, Sangiovese, Columbia Valley, Washington, $25, 450 cases. Deep ruby in color, this wine exudes rich black fruit aromas and sweet oak. Big, jammy fruit, a touch of black olive and a healthy dose of oak is balanced by very food-friendly acidity. 89/89.

1998 Claar, Sangiovese, Columbia Valley, Washington, $18. You’ll find lots of bright cherry and earthy notes with a light hand on the oak. Chianti-styled, the wine is very crisp, with a long, charming berry aftertaste. Lovely. 90/91.

1999 Camellia Cellars, Sangiovese, Merlo Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley, California, $28, 225 cases. Engaging aromas of plum and cherry are followed by full flavors of cherry and raspberry, silky tannins and firm acidity. This was a perfect match for a plate of spaghetti with Italian sausage based red sauce. 90/89.