Sultans of Sonoma Coast

[wondersofwine]

We had Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs at this tasting with David Hirsch of Hirsch Vineyards, Ehren Jordan of Failla, and Andy Peay of Peay Vineards. (Mr. Jordan went to grade school on Nantucket.)
All are winemakers in northern Sonoma Coastal area near Mendocino County around Fort Ross, Annapolis, CA etc.
Peay has vineyards near a river with coastal influence and fog. Also the San Andreas fault is only a mile away which has resulted in a melange of soil and rock types as part of the terroir.

The first flight was Chardonnay from each of the three winemakers. (Andy Peay is in business with his brother Nick and sister-in-law Vanessa Wong who has winemaking experience with Peter Michael.) I have seen lots of buzz about Peay wines, mainly on eBob/Mark Squire bulletin board but my preferences came out different as you will see.

The 2007 Chardonnays presented a nice gradation of "butteryness."
My favorite was the Hirsch Chardonnay which was more lemony and crisp, speaking to me of lemon drops and minerals.
The Peay Cardonnay was in between the Hirsch and Failla with some butter cream, chewy, with a long finish. It had some noticeable mineral but perhaps not as much as the Hirsch. It was 100% malolactic fermentation in 100% French oak, 40% new oak.
The Failla Chardonnay, from Keefer Ranch, was the most buttery, although Ehren Jordan said he wants to produce wines with acidity to go best with foods. He uses 1/3 new oak, all French barrels. Says he doesn't want to let wood overpower the fruit.

David Hirsch ferments 40% of his Chardonnay in stainless steel, then neutral oak barrels also wanting to bring the acidity forward. He may buy a concrete fermenter for further experimentation.

On the flight of three Pinot Noirs my preference changed to the Failla. The Hirsch entry was a cuvee he calls "M" for middle (not his top Pinot.) The "M" was the most transparent of the three wines with framboise on the nose and deep red berries/cherries on the palate--still in the red fruit range. Young for optimal showing--may show more in a year or two.

Interestingly, the Failla Pinot Noir was made with grapes from Hirsch. Very nice fragrant nose--of strawberries. Strawberries on the palate with initial pure fruit followed by a puckery finish. My favorite of this flight. Not his vin de garde--top-of-the-line wine to age but delightful now.

The Peay Pinot Noir had a liqueur-like nose and a lengthy finish with some smoothness but didn't impress me greatly. To be fair, this wine may need a few years to show its best.

The third flight had a Hirsch Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast (2006) which is a notch above the "M" cuvee and Syrahs from Failla and Peay.
Hirsch said they removed about two tons of fruit before harvest. He was seeking balance in the wine and I feel he succeeded. More cherry than strawberry this time. Very refined and elegant and would be a good food wine. Semi-transparent. Light body but really delicious. Drinks easily.

I didn't get down the vintage of the Failla Syrah but it was probably 2006 the same as the Peay. Quite opaque. Fermented in stainless steel then aged in oak. It had an elegance and was not too tannic. Could be a versatile food wine. I prefered the Failla Syrah over the Peay Syrah "La Bruma."

2006 Peay Syrah "La Bruma"
Low brix. Not much sugar in the grapes. Peay makes 2 estate syrahs. Opaque. Pepper on the finish. Although my personal preference was for the Failla, this is also a well-constructed Syrah and may have a good future ahead of it.

A limited amount of Syrah is grown on the Sonoma Coast so it was nice to sample two from different producers. They were going on to a wine store tasting of their older wines but I didn't make that event as I had another session lined up with an importer of Italian wines. I may not get that posted until after my vacation. Also this afternoon I am going to a tasting of Cain Five and tomorrow (Sunday) to the Grand Tasting with all vintners contributing.




[This message has been edited by wondersofwine (edited 07-13-2009).]