Great wine dinner in Raleigh (French wines, mostly whites)

[wondersofwine]

Importer from London was there to comment on the French wines. Ashley did a great job with the food--her risotto is to die for.
Dessert chef was superb. Place: Enoteca Vin, October 1st. Citrus cured salmon Gravlax with a potato blini (looked like a pancake to me) garnished with creme fraiche and sprig of chive (?) '99 Rostaing Condrieu "La Bonnette" (I commented on this wine earlier; didn't taste the mountain herbs as much this time--still smoky and minerally and very pleasing to my palate) Next, a Maine lobster "cocktail" with jicama and avacado accompanied by two 99 Puligny-Montrachets from the same producer, Benoit Ente. The P-M "Champ-Gain" and the "Folatieres." These were the only pairing where I didn't pick a favorite. The "Champ-Gain" was pale gold, viscous, smooth and balanced with a pear accent. The "Folatieres" was medium gold, more minerally (grapes grown on limestone) and had more mouth presence. I would say it had more body and weight and tasted more mature although they were the same vintage. The "Champ-Gain" had a delightful youthful essence. Both enjoyable.
Next salad of baby arugula (very fresh) with Humbolt Fog cheese, warm tomato and balsamic vinaigrette. Wines were from same vineyard and vintage, different producers: '99 Fichet Puligny-Montrachet "Referts" and '99 Carillon P-M "Referts." Here my preference was for the Fichet white burgundy. The importer commented that the Carillon is a white burgundy made for fairly early drinking. The Fichet had a taste of tart apples, hint of glycerol, and a nice lingering aftertaste. Then the entree of roasted rack of lamb (rare) with mustard seed and fried sage risotto and chanterelle mushrooms. Two reds from Bordeaux: '98 Leoville-Poyferre and '98 Ducru-Beaucaillou.
I had tried the Leoville before and found it very pleasant and drinkable. Another wine fancier says it has more than the usual percentage of Merlot because the Merlot grapes ripened better than the c.s. that vintage. The importer felt the Ducru to be the better wine, and I think in time it may show more complexity and power than the Leoville. However it's elements are not yet in balance. (One man at our table studied at Cambridge University where they drank French reds about 30 years old, so he found both Bordeaux to be victims of infanticide). The Ducru-Beaucaillou was a similar purple color to the Leoville. It was bubbly when first poured. Earthy nose with taste of dark berries, cedar, maybe lead pencil? Drying tannins on finish.
Dessert was a vanilla bean custard tart with red wine poached pears. We had a '96 Chateau Raymond-Lafon and a '96 CHATEAU D'YQUEM with dessert! Guess which I liked better. The d'Yquem of course although both were quite amazing. I thought I detected some almond in the nose of the Raymond-Lafon as well as the botrytis. The d'Yquem had more clarity, more intense nose although I couldn't pinpoint the differences--it was just more perfumed. It was luscious, refined, graceful and powerful, with a longer finish. The importer echoed my descriptor of refinement. He said the '96 and '97 vintages were great Sauternes years.
Wonderful evening and a real splurge for me.