Business Week article

[joeyz6]

Did anyone read the Business Week cover story about the "Wine War?" As a francophile, it really distressed me -- not only because the solidity of France's place as the world's No. 1 wine producing country seems to be eroding, but also because of the slightly militant attitude some French seem to be taking against foreign wines. It reminds me of the ultra-conservative French political party called the National Front, which has recently received as much as 15% of the vote in elections. The motto of the National Front, or 'La Peine' as it's called in France, is "France is for the French." I hate that attitude. But I still feel terrible about the situation that age-old French wine producers are stuck in.

The article made some excellent points about appelation control and labels; it's frustratingly true, for example, that a non-wine expert often can't tell what grape a French wine is made from if the label doesn't say. That is a pretty rare problem with New World wines, though.

I'm a pretty hard-core American capitalist, but I don't like what our capitalism has done to wine production, in California for example. Their regulations and laws are obviously minimal (seemingly TOO minimal), especially compared to the French laws. The French laws, while maybe a little outdated, seem very romantic to me. I think it was foodie who was talking about oak flavoring in California wines. Apparently it is ILLEGAL in France to use oak chips to flavor wine (barrels are legal, of course, just not the chips). The BW article quoted a French winemaker who complained about this law, but to me it seems that the French gov't just doesn't want to compromise the quality of its wine. Which I love. Leave it to the French to put sophistication and tradition ahead of all else.

Then there's the Bordeaux cru classes -- again, very charming, but why won't they allow changes? According to the article, in the 146-year history of the classes, there has been ONE solitary addition, that of the Chateau Mouton in 1973. That seems silly.

Maybe if the French relax their laws just a bit, that will help them regain a stronger hold on their production level.

[Bucko]

I am buying more French wine than ever, so the article does not hold true for me....

One problem with France as elsewhere in the world, wine is a luxury item, the economy is not hot right now, escalating prices over the past few years have compounded the problem even further, and a lot of people are saying ENOUGH!

I hope that it has a positive effect on prices, but I think that I am tilting at windmills.....

[Thomas]

I see it another way. The French have more competition. Sometimes the competition has an advantage such as less regulatory restrictions. Other times the competition has a product advantage such as the dynamic spurt of quality coming from Italy. And sometimes the leader simply loses the leading position.

Joeyz, on the matter of varietal labeling. The French have relied for centuries (except in Alsace) on "place" names rather than grape names. They have done this because their system defines the grape varieties that are grown in regions. I like that system because it forces the consumer to shop around for the producer he/she likes.

What information about the wine do you get from a shelf of a hundred California Merlots in a retail shop? But a shelf of Bordeaux wines tells you generally what to expect.

[joeyz6]

Foodie, I agree with you -- the French system is wonderful and romantic and charming and traditional and all those great things, and the labels tell a lot to experts like yourself. But it's not clear to the average, novice wine buyer what he or she is getting. Now that doesn't mean, of course, that the buyer should resort to another country's wine. If we had it our way, everyone would keep trying vineyards until they found something they like, and they'd learn to differentiate the varieties. But it might be a little unrealistic to hope that everyone would do that.

What do you mean when you say that France has more competition, did you mean WITHIN France or from abroad? The latter is obviously correct, but I question if you mean to use the word "competition" when you speak of French wines in France. France grows more and more socialist every election (Paris, for example, is now controlled by that party), and open-market capitalism is not currently a prominent part of the French economy (unfortunately, in my opinion). If the smaller vineyards of Bordeaux don't have a chance to attain cru classe status, even if they're magnificent, then that's not a free market, is it? It's just not an even playing field.

If I'm getting too political, stop me -- I don't want to overstep any boundries or offend anyone.

[This message has been edited by joeyz6 (edited 09-05-2001).]

[This message has been edited by joeyz6 (edited 09-05-2001).]

[joeyz6]

Oh, and Bucko, that's an interesting point about the economy. I noticed that as well -- in the article, they failed to mention that France isn't the only wine producing country whose presence in America is fading. According to BW, both Italy and Chile have sold less wine in the US the past two years than before, as well (although Australia has sold more).

[winoweenie]

Don -Bucko-Quijote, If you weren't fightin' them w-mills you'd be in your Conestoga sellin' snake-oil remedies to my innocent peeplez. WW

[Bucko]

Hey now, you said you liked that last batch of snake I sold you......

[barnesy]

Joey,

I think you are getting your systems mixed up. The standard cru system that is used in Burgundy is used to some extent in Bordeaux as well. There are grand cru and cru level Bordeaux. They can petition the wine authority to seek advancement to a higher cru. If the authority deems the quality justified, they can advance. Conversely, they can also be downgraded.

The one advancement you are talking about is different. That was in the famous "1855 classification" which was based largely on what the wines traded at. This particular classification only included chateau from the Medoc region with one from the Graves region. They also included the dessert wines of Sauternes and Barsac.

There are two different systems operating the "growth system" of 1855 and the legal Cru system established in 1936. I do agree that they can be confusing but an upgrading in status can also mean an upgrading in pricing. Ask WW about all the quality Bordeux that is out there without a high growth rating to make the price go through the roof. Of course the system could use some work, but I like knowing all the stuff the region implies.

What can I say, I'm an egghead.

Barnesy

[winoweenie]

Joey, what Barnsey is referring to is the 5 Growths Classification of 1855. In the original classifying, there were only 4 1st growths.Finally in 32 Mouton was given 1st growth status. the 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th growths have had a few additions and subtractions over the years, but amazingly (to me ) have been fairly accurate as to quality/rating. Naturally there are loads of fine wines that are not included in this classification. They make their mark with the wine drinkers of the world. WW

[Thomas]

I meant competition from the world over.

As for classifications vs. varietal labeling, I like knowing what it is I drink, that is why I learned about wine. Is it too much for a consumer to learn a little--not much, just the basics?

And when the consumer is ready, we have a nice little seminar that Scoop and I teach...that's another forum.

[joeyz6]

I guess you put more stock in the average American than I do, but maybe -- I HOPE -- you are right that it isn't asking too much to learn a little. That's what I'm trying to do. (And thanks to everyone for helping with that).

[Scoop]

The death of the French wine industry has been greatly exaggerated. Sure, it faces more competition worldwide -- and, in general, the French almost always react to such situations defensively (to wit: the fight against the incursion of English) -- but there are goods things happening in many French vineyards, particularly in southern France (Provence, the Languedoc). And in terms of value, France is certainly one of best sources these days.

While French wines largely adhere to AOC laws and the concept of "terroir", varietal labeling is certainly on the rise in France (which, under EU law, is permitted if the wine is made from 85% of a single grape variety). Also, grape varieties are also being stated more and more in the fine print on the back of the bottle. This stems from market pressures.

At the same time, some California and other "New World" producers are seriously trying to develop "terroir"-driven wines, where place (and soil) means as much as the variety(ies) chosen. Why? A more sophisticated wine market (and winemakers), at least at the top end. So, in a sense, Europe and the US are slowly, haltingly moving toward each other in terms of labeling, albeit from radically different starting points, although it's no stretch to say that Europe will remain much more detailed, regulated and geographically-designated than its New World competitors -- and that's a good thing.

For example, "Barbaresco" means something, almost a guarantee of quality and a certain style of wine, while "Napa Valley" can take you across the entire spectrum, from plonk to the sublime.

Cheers,

Scoop

[winoweenie]

You " Siver-Tongued Devil You " WW