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[Auburnwine]

When the weather outside is frightful, I dearly love a good Australian port or muscat. These are extremely underpriced.

They are sweet and sticky and intense, so they are not something that you toss back. You savor a glass or two -- and if you have a chunk of stinky cheese and some good almonds and big, fat dates, you have a brilliant seasonal tradition started.

The Benjamin Tawny is a good introduction. It runs about $11. The Yalumba Muscat Victoria Museum Release runs about $15 and is a carnival of fruit and flavor and warmth. Seppelt also makes several excellent fortified wines.

As a general seasonal wine, Innkeeper is spot on. Domaine Ste. Michelle does lovely work for under $12. The Spanish Cavas also make the heart merry like a song.