Loire Valley Red Wines

[Randy Caparoso]

Although Saumur is known for its "mousseaux" (sparkling wine vinified from the Chenin Blanc grape), and Saumur-Champigny can be a still white wine, the vast majority of wines bottled under the latter appellation are reds vinified from the Cabernet Franc grape.

Saumur-Champigny is not often seen in the U.S. because importers, retailers and restaurateurs alike think of it as a thin, tart, lean tasting wine. Indeed, in Paris --where it is still highly fashionable (often drunk on-the-rocks) -- it is known, and sold as, the "Beaujolais of the Loire." In the U.S., alas, purveyors would much prefer sell Beaujolais.

I have seen at least a couple of producers of Saumur-Champigny sold in the U.S.; but again, off and on. I would advise you to contact a wine shop in New York known to specialize in French wine -- particularly vin de pays ("country" wines) -- as they might happen to have one.

However, some good advice: Saumur-Champigny is similar, but not usually nearly as good, as other Cabernet Franc-based reds from the Loire. The major appellations (regions) for this style of red are Chinon and Bourgueil, which are definitely easier to find in the U.S.. So if you like the light, soft, aromatic (like minty raspberries) taste of Saumur-Champigny, you would actually be better off with a Chinon or Bourgueil (the latter pronounced "bor-goyl"). In fact, the Chinons of Charles Joguet (he makes a number of cuvees each year) are considered some of the finest pure Cabernet Francs in the world!