Food-wine match

[Randy Caparoso]

Mind my barging in, gentlemen? I was just in the Fleming's steakhouse in Scottsdale last night, having their famous "Wedge Salad" -- iceberg wedges with tomatoes, sweet onions and, you bet, creamy Roquefort dressing. To tell you the truth, I didn't even think about the fact that I was drinking a Green & Red Zinfandel plus a Frescobaldi Chianti Classico at the time (Fleming's always offers up to 115 wines by the glass), since I was concentrating more on the crunch of the lettuce, the sweetness of the tomato, and the company of my lovely 20 year old daughter. But in retrospect, I think the softer Chianti was better with the Roquefort -- the Zinfandel seemed a tad sharp with tannin.

Problem is -- I don't drink white wine unless forced to. So my own first choice would be Pinot Noir with all the courses, since it is soft yet fruity enough not to fight with the saltiness in the ham, the lean taste of the pork chops (boy, are they lean these days), and the sharpness of the Roquefort salad.

But if you don't mind a white wine, foodie's first suggestion of Riesling -- especially an off-dry German Kabinett or Halbtrocken -- would be pretty much ideal. The edge of sweetness will do nicely with the salty ham, and cut through the mild oiliness of the pork chops as well as the sharpness in the salad (plus the sweet fruitiness of tomato).

If I were entertaining guests, I would have one bottle of each on hand for everyone to enjoy as they please -- one or the other, or both at once. Nothing to talk about. Just enjoy!