pool wines

[Randy Caparoso]

Geez, Nancy, you're going lots of places where I have done tremendous research over the years. I live in Hawaii, which is perpetually warm; meaning countless hours spent with my feet in the water with a glass in hand. Tough job, but someone has to do it.

The operative terms for summertime wines for me are cold, light, and refreshing. I noticed some of the wines others recommended are sweet edged (particularly the Muscats or blends with Muscat and/or Chenin Blanc), and so I would caution you about that. You and your husband seem like the type that would prefer their wines dry.

But Muscats ARE ideal because they can be so light (7%-10% alc.) and flowery fresh; but remember that bone dry Muscats are definitely to be found as well. I recently tasted a wonderful '96 Muscat "Grand Cru" by Domaine Hurst, for instance; an Alsatian growth which is intensely musky-minerally-floral, very clean and fresh in the finish (none of the bitterness associated with the varietal). If you don't see this producer in your area, I would certainly consider others from Alsace you may chance to come across.

Another unusually bone dry Muscat that I tasted recently is the '97 Bolognani Moscato from the Piemonte of Italy; whispery soft, tender, lusciously fruity and, of course, fresh and perfumey. Very unusual, because Italian Moscato's invariably fall on the sweet side.

Now for my all-time favorite poolside wines: bone dry pinks. Although pink wines are indeed fun, I always consider the dry versions to be somewhat serious as well -- since the better ones are definitely made from very serious grapes (such as Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc and Syrah), and often by some of the world's most skilled winemakers. All of the following should be available in '97 or '98 vintages by this coming summer, and you should definitely consider them since they are all unfailingly good, summer after summer:

1. Etude, Carneros Rose - Primarily from the Pinot Noir by winemaster Tony Soter; always fresh, soft, and as fragrant as the sweetest summer breeze; and deceptively lithe, long flavors.

2. Beringer, "Rose de Saignee" - a juicy, voluptuous (yet bone dry!) pink wine made from the Pinot Noir and Syrah grapes; absolutely no rough tannin/alcohol edges, just smooth, smooth, smooth.

3. Regaleali, Rosato - From Sicily, and made from native Sicilian grapes; an unbelievably lush, round, aromatic pink wine, giving fresh berry tea-like fragrances and flavors that finish dry, yet just don't quit on the palate. A real mouthful of a rose!

4. Beringer "LVS" White Zinfandel - When White Zin is good, it is very, very good. It's the nature of the grape to give intense, fresh berry/watermelony flavors! Although you could quibble with the faintest whisper of sugar in this wine, it is for all intents and purposes a dry style; finishing soft and gentle. The best of this much maligned genre!

5. Charles Joguet, Chinon Rose - This is a little esoteric; made in the Loire River Region by perhaps the world's most respected Cabernet Franc master. Very gentle -- as all good pink wine should be -- very pale pink, but very flavorful, with subtle strawberry scent with faint rose petal leafiness, and long, lingering, yet perfectly dry flavors.

6. Iron Horse, Sangiovese Rosato - From Sonoma, a richly scented wine (tea, fresh cherry/strawberry qualities, and a light spring leafiness) of medium weight and medium yet zesty acidity; a little short on the finish, but fresh and airy nevertheless.

7. Robert Sinskey, Vin Gris of Pinot Noir - Like the Etude, only a few hundred cases of this wine are made each year (since they are "saignees" -- essentially made from juice "bled" off red wine vats to make these wineries' red Pinot Noirs more intense). If you see this one, snap it up. Sinskey likes to make their's a little lighter, easier, soft and -- picking up the lush pepperminty/strawberry Pinot Noir flavor -- long, supple and finely textured on the palate.

There are, of course, lots of other highly regarded dry pink wines of the world. I'm thinking particularly of those made primarily from the Grenache grape -- such as those from the famous Tavel region of southern France, and from California, Bonny Doon's Vin Gris de Cigare and Joseph Phelps' Vin du Mistral Grenache Rose. To be honest, I'm not recommending as highly because they tend to have a slightly harder, fuller, heavier, more dominant taste if you will. It's the nature of the Grenache grape to be like this -- which, in my mind, make them more ideal in the context of food (like summer chicken and vegetable barbecues in fresh herb marinades), but less desirable just for sitting around the edge of the pool and sipping between dips. So look into the Grenache-based pinks if they sound interesting. Just keep in mind the difference between them and those made from other red varietals. Enjoy!