pinot gris

[Randy Caparoso]

I'm afraid Bucko's right. Oregon makes wonderful Pinot Gris, but you may as well go for the blue chips. The '96 WillaKenzie is a beauty -- truly silky in texture, spicy perfumes, rich, almost plump yet not too big. I can also unhesitatingly suggest the "Reserve" Pinot Gris cuvees by Rex Hill and King -- almost like graceful twin sisters, harmonizing minerally-stone, steel, wildflowers, musk spice and flinty smoke. The "regular" cuvees by the latter two are also nice -- just simpler, without the length and texture.

Oregonians may be shocked, by Californians are actually beginning to turn out some decent Pinot Gris, too. The style is not as delicate or airy fresh as Oregon's, but their strong suit will be intensity and flesh. I agree with Bucko -- avoid the Mondavi. The Chalk Hill "Estate Vineyard Selection," on the other hand, is crazy-good -- a seamless, toasty, yet crisp and viscous, elegantly crafted style -- but pricey ($23-$28). For around $15, Babcock in Santa Ynez Valley also makes a promising one -- properly crisp, lots of minerals and stone fruit aromas to go with floral spice and length.

Regarding Italian Pinot Grigio: I agree with Jason that they're definitely underrated. Their fruit tends to be pure, yet with all the mineral/spice/flower complexities of any Pinot "Gris." But as with Oregon, for me many are called but few are chosen. In my opinion, the richest and most elegant styles on the U.S. market are that of Kris (from Alto Adige, steely and minerally), Pighin (a creamy, lemony, flinty style from Grave del Friuli), and Magnas (also from Friuli, with unusual lime-floral and licorice/tarragon leafiness).

Finally, one of the finest in the world today (and much admired by many cutting-edge winemakers) is the Pinot Gris made by Weinhaus Heger in Germany's Baden region. If you see it, buy it. You'll love its perfect juxtaposition of delicacy, crispness, silken texture, and billowing varietal floweriness with stony, yeasty/flinty nuances.