A CALIFORNIA FAVORITE

[Jerry D Mead]

A little late for New Years, but this good wine is good anytime:

"J" (by Jordan) 1994 "Sonoma County" ($28) I suppose it could be considered arrogant, but "J" doesn't call itself "Brut" or sparkling or anything else. It is simply "J," as identified by the simple large, brush-stroke look letter in gold on the stylish custom made bottle. It's a blend of nearly equal portions of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (the two premium grapes of the Champagne region) and for the past several years has been one of America's best bubblies, racking up gold medals, trophies and sweepstakes awards. It reminds of the French with its full bodied, creamy, toasty complexity, but it is at once lively and delicate with extremely fine carbonation. It is crisp without being acidic and while it is dry enough to accompany hors d'oeuvres, appetizers and even main courses, it is also round enough to indulge the second or third toast to the New Year or a new bride. Rating: 98/88
Wines are scored using a unique 100 point system. First number rates quality; second number rates value.