98 Chat. St. Jean SB, La Petite Etoile, Foul or Fabulous?

[misterjive]

It seems that for wine drinkers, to oak or not to oak is a bit of a conundrum. We Americans are surely to blame; we grow the oak, we make the oaky Chardonnays, we (as consumers) equate oakiness with priceyness and desirability. I, too, hate chards thattastelike they were "made by a carpenter." But these oaky monsters sell in the US all the live-long day. The Europeans must be aghast. So much oak obliterates complexity, and what Frenchman wouldn't prefer a fine, nuanced white Burgundy over an oaky, one-dimensional Cali chard. When I first tasted Silvio Jermann's (Italy) Vintage Tunina single-vineyard, stainless steel-fermented Chardonnay, it was a revelation. Depths of complexity, such as an oak-bomb could never dream of. The grape could finally be appreciated for itself. Likewise, in this forum, I have written a few times that Americans somewhat foolishly equate oak with quality when it comes to Chiantis. Ruffino Gold Label Riserva Ducale sells in large part because we as a market prefer an oaky product. As for whites, I can relate to Winent's comment about the Forest Glen. This "freshly-extinguished campfire" taste in Cali chard I have come to associate with art gallery giveaways and other opening day events. Heavy oak tastes cheap, somehow, like an awkward attempt to gloss over major flaws in the grapes. Good oak on good wine is another story. But please, California producers, spare us the over-oaked chards and sauv blancs that you convince us to buy for $9-12 instead of the $2 they are worth.

Speaking of Sauvignon Blanc, I had a nice bottle of 1999 Giesen (Marlborough) last night, with the oak kept in fine proportion to the fruit. The wine is quite crisp, with deliciously tart grapefruit, green apple, and citrus notes. Marlborough continues to amaze me for this grape. Brancott Sauvignon Blanc remains a favorite, but the Brancott is $19.99, and the Giesen was $10.99. I'd say the Giesen is well worth it!