Barbera Update

[Innkeeper]

Have been into Barbera lately. For light ones you can hardly beat 1997 Bersano, Barbera d'Asti, Costalunga, $12.15 www.popswine.com ; and 1998 Bonny Doon, Ca'del Solo, Monterey, Barbera, $15.00 www.wine.com . They are both berry, berry, berry good yet well balanced as well. Great for summer pasta, pizza, burgers, etc. Had the Bersano with grillpanned cube steak, corn on the cob, and salad last night. The Bonny Doon has a little more heft, while the Bersano is the classic light style that we've been recommending for beginners. For one with a little more edge, try 1996 Monte Volpe, California, Barbera, $11.00 www.wine.com. Even though this baby carries the California appellation, it is definitely old vine stuff, primarily from way up north in the Ukiah district. Our kind of wine, with a great price. Goes with almost anything a Rhone/Syrah would marry with, including grilled lamb chops, grilled and tomatoed eggplant, and things of that ilk.