Collavini Merlot

[Innkeeper]

1998 Eugenio Collavini, Merlot, Riserva di Casa, Collio DOC ($13.72). Was a little apprehensive about this one because of youth and the "riserva" thing. Had hope because of slopped shoulder bottle. Guessed right. It was wide open and ready to go. Gorgeous dark garnet red color. Ripe cherries and spice on the nose and upfront. Earthly complexity and smooth (but not flabby) tannins across the palate, and a lovely finish. Reminiscent in structure of out of the boot Louis M. Martini Cabs we've had in the past. This Collio Merlot married splendidly with the last Nebraska sirloin in the freezer, Crimini mushrooms, and salad. Did refrain from drinking it with the salad, but enjoyed the last glass by itself afterward.

Beginning to think that Italian wines are more predicable by price than, say, American wines are. Have long known this about Italian Barbera. The less expensive ones are lighter, fruiter, and even crisper than the more expensive ones that have greater structure and concentration, a little oak, a whole different family of food to go with, and a different degree of approachability. Same is true of these Collio Merlots. At five dollars more, Bortoluzzi, for one, is a much bigger and tighter wine, requiring two or three more years in the rack than the one reviewed here.