Three decent Sanjos

[Bucko]

1999 Deerfield Ranch, Sangiovese, Roumiguiere Vineyard, Lake County, California, $22, 531 cases. With a nose full of strawberries, cherries and cedar, this wine displays delightful balance and harmony of flavors. While sweet oak is present, it does not dominate the luscious red fruit. Very drinkable now. 91/92.

1999 Luna, Sangiovese, Riserva, Napa Valley, California, $50, 1,650 cases. This deeply colored wine has a lovely nose of plum, red cherry and cocoa. Lush, with all components playing in harmony, the earthy red and black fruit, leather and dark chocolate make a fine statement. Give the moderate tannins a couple of years to tame down. 90/87.

1998 Poliziano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, “Asinone,” Italy, $43. Dark ruby, with lovely aromas of cherries, currants, leather, earth and old wood. Full, lush, perhaps made in a more international style, with modest acidity and tannins that sneak up on you at the finish. Give this one 3-5 years. 90/88.