Top 10 California Chards & Chard Dishes

[Randy Caparoso]

Thanks, guys! I noticed, though, that your minds are puttering out after naming four or five? Is it the brain cells (heck, Bucko, you threw in a Washingtonian!), or the fact (like me) that you really don't drink a lot of California Chardonnay.

I do keep on top of the best and latest, however, since I'm a restaurateur who's supposed to be cutting-edge.

But I've gone ahead and written my story. I named my ten favorite Chardonnay dishes; but not my "Top 10" Chards, since

1. I realized that the Top 10 (in my book) are really quite rare on the market. I don't like to frustrate readers.

2. I also realized that the best Chardonnays -- which, like the best Zins, are invariably big -- really aren't that great outside the context of food. But when they're consumed with the right dish... wow!

Anyhow, my list is quite contemporary. So here's how I see 'em, in order of how I would personally place 'em:

1. Au Bon Climat "Nuits-Blanches"
2. Ramey Wine Cellars "Hyde Vineyard"
3. Chalk Hill "Estate Vineyard Selection"
4. Landmark "Overlook"
5. Neyers "Thieriot Vineyard"
6. Murphy-Goode "J&K Reserve"
7. De Loach "OFS"
8. Kistler "Dutton Ranch"
9. Beringer "Private Reserve"
10. Robert Mondavi "Reserve"

Most of these are quite big and richly oaked, of course; but whether you like it or not, they have the richest, most harmonious and supple textures, balancing buoyancy and intensity.

As for my Top 10 California Chardonnay dishes, I've found that any of the following would make the wines that much more enjoyable. Listed along with their primary sources and inspirations:

1. Roasted Chicken with Tarragon (Julia Child)
2. Veal Osso Buco in Dill Chardonnay Jus (Harvey Steiman)
3. Wild Mushrooms in Fennel Butter Sauce (John Ash)
4. Sweetbreads Sauteed in Butter (Julia Child)
5. Seared Opakapaka (Hawaiian pink snapper) in Sea Urchin Chardonnay Butter Sauce (Roy Yamaguchi)
6. Roasted Poblanos with Spicy Carnitas & Mexican Mint Marigold (Jacqueline Lau of Roy's Waikoloa)
7. Truffled White Sausage with Pistachios & Court-Bouillon (Richard Olney)
8. Seared Salmon in Corn Broth with Leeks & Chanterelles (Wildwood's Corey Schreiber)
9. Grilled White Fish with Roasted Sweet Pepper, Tropical Fruit & Cilantro Salsa (David Rosengarten & Joshua Wesson)
10. Chilled Cream of Mushroom Soup (Dick Arrowood)

Try 'em. You can't go wrong!