1997 Cabs

[Bucko]

I thought your tail was always between your legs, you bad (or is that mad) dog. Here are notes on eight that I thought had the right stuff:

1997 Kenwood, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County, $22, 39,650 cases. Almost opaque in the glass, the wine has lovely blackberry and American oak aromas. Rich, dark fruits prevail, with generous but integrated sweet oak, and a long, fruity finish. The ample tannins will benefit from bottle aging. Good value.

1997 Louis Martini, Cabernet Sauvignon, Monte Rosso Vineyard, Sonoma Valley, $40, 1,172 cases. Rich, complex black fruit and mixed oak flavors are riding a tannic backbone. The wine finishes with a long, fruity aftertaste. Needs aging.

1997 Rodney Strong, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County, $16, 160,000 cases. The nose has black cherry and cola notes. Lush, mixed black fruit flavors are supported by well-integrated oak, moderate tannins and a brisk finish. Good value.

1997 St. Clement, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, $35, 7,100 cases. This wine has luscious blackberry and plum aromas and flavors, well-integrated spicy oak, impeccable balance, and finishes with silky tannins. Good value in today's market.

1997 Clos Du Val, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, $26, 38,222 cases. Maybe their best Napa Cab since 1985. Elegant is the word here. Well-balanced, moderate yet supple tannins, allowing for drinking now or for several years of aging, bounteous blackberries, minerals, finishing long and lush. Very good value.

1997 M. Trinchero, Cabernet Sauvignon, Founder's Estate, Napa Valley, $38, 4,924 cases. Notes of cassis, cedar and vanilla lead to rich black cherry fruit and enhancing oak flavors. Well-balanced, with moderate tannins on the long finish. Tasty.

1997 Clos Du Val, Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District, $48, 2,076 cases. Part of the new Terroir Series of wines, these grapes come from the Palisade vineyard. This tasty wine has aromas of black fruit and licorice, backed by blackberries, blueberries, moderate tannins and nice acidity. A very long, complex finish.

1997 St. Clement, Oroppas, Napa Valley, $40, 3,000 cases. A blend of 55% CS, 30% Merlot, 15% CF. An elegant wine, with blackberries, dried cherries, chocolate, balanced sweet oak, and moderate but silky tannins. Very long aftertaste. Approachable now, better in 5 years.

Bucko