Italian Wine dinner

[Scotland]

We are hosting an Italian-themed dinner and I want to do a tasting of 3 Italian red wines to go with Osso Bucco and roasted garlic mashed potatoes. I'd like to keep the price moderate ($10- $25 per bottle) and I'd like to have wines which are distinctive, but complimentary types. Any suggestions? (I live in the San Diego, CA area). Thanks.

[Randy Caparoso]

Ossobuco refers to the hindquarter cut (translated as "bone with the hole") of the veal, not a specific dish. However, I'll assume that you slow roast it in the classic Milanese style with plum tomatoes, thyme and veal stock. Although ossobuco has a marrowed richness, the fat content between he grain is not nearly as high as red beef, and so we usually like to serve a Milanese style ossobuco with a red wine with:

1. Moderate tannin (since low fat doesn't require high or thick tannin), and

2. Slightly zesty (medium to medium-high) acidity to match the natural acidity of the tomatoes.

Good examples of this include classic Tuscan style reds (Chianti Classico, Rosso di Montalcino, Vino di Nobile di Montepulciano, or Carmignano) which are made from the moderately tannic, zesty Sangiovese grape. From Umbria, the Lungarotti Rubesco is a good alternative; and in Tuscany, Frescobaldi makes an excellent Cabernet based "Pomimo." California also produces some decently rich, zesty varietal Sangioveses (look for one by Swanson, Vita Nova, Noceto, Babcock, the Ca' del Solo "Il Fiasco," or the Ferrari-Carano "Siena").

From Veneto in Northern Italy, medium sized Valpolicellas -- especially the Zenato "Ripassa" Valpolicella and the Allegrini "La Grola" -- fit the bill; and from the Piemonte, bottlings of Barbera (I like the Coppo "Camp du Rouss") can be full of acidic zip and medium weight fruitiness.

Now supposing you dispense with the tomatoes, and prepare the ossobuco more in the "modern" style -- braised with white wine, a softer herb like basil or dill, and finished with a light veal stock or even a touch of butter. All of the sudden you have more of a "white meat" which is more appropriate for, you guessed it, a white wine -- albeit a full, viscously textured one such as a Chardonnay. Of course, your local retailer will have a zillion choices of that wine. You would find it interesting to try the tomato-less style ossobuco with a Chardonnay as well as a VERY soft, low tannin red such as Italian Dolcetto, Sangiovese di Romagna (from Emilia-Romagna), or even a Merlot (such as the Falesco or Stella Merlot from Umbria).

If you have a good, knowledgeable retailer, don't be afraid to seek his or her advice!