Ancien Pinot Noirs from CA

[wondersofwine]

A tasting Sept. 4 at Pinehurst Wine Festival led by Curtis Strohl. I believe all the wines were 2007 vintage.

Ancien started in 1992; in 1998 the owners quit their jobs at Domaine Chandon. Four employees--produce about 4000 cases. Four per cent of CA wines come from Napa Valley. 95% of Napa Valley wineries are family-owned. Area boasts a moderate climate zone found in only about 2% of the Earth's geography. Warm, moderate with fog at night and in the morning.

First Pinot tasted was the 2007 Ancien Carneros Pinot Noir, grapes from Toyon Farm. I had sampled this (probably an earlier vintage) once before at a Vino Volo in the Detroit Airport. This was my favorite wine of the tasting although the #3 came close. I was the only one voting for this is my favorite. Rich, sedimentary clay soil, southwestern aspect to the vines. The clay soils promote tannin and texture, darker, deeper flavors. 7 acres planted. Strawberry nose--quite pronounced I thought. Curtis says it exhibits richness and weightiness. Normally retails for $36 but was available @ $33 at the festival wine mart. I bought one bottle.

#2 in the tasting--Ancien Napa Valley "Mink" Pinot Noir Got no votes as the favorite. Alluvial benchland. Volcanic ash. Coombsville sub-AVA. Tufa soil promotes fine-grained tannins and a distinct minerality with a chalky finish. I didn't care for this one. $45

#3 Ancien Russian River Pinot Noir (grapes are from Gilbert Perez. A crowd favorite and my second choice. Southwest corner of Russian River Valley. Sandy, silty soil (ancient beach area.) Well-drained soils promote wine vigor. These soils develop intense, ripe fruit flavors, focused on the mid-palate. Quite transparent in the glass. Juicy berries--somewhat exuberant. Spicy finish. Doesn't require food. Would be good for a party or crowd. $45 but available for $33 at wine mart. I bought one bottle.

#4 Ancien Sonoma Mountain "Red Dog Vineyard" Pinot Noir Far northwest corner of Sonoma Mountain area. Ancient marine sedimentary loams, steep hillside which leaches soil nutrients. Eastern face of ridgeline. Mountain climate and ancient soils produce exotic aromas. Darker than the Toyon Farm Carneros wine. Acidic with medium to long finish. Some found tobacco fragrance in the wine. Others suggested orange or cocoa. Curtis describes as exotic, spicy. This got some votes for favorite. $48

#5 Ancien Santa Rita Hills "Fiddlestix" Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County) Just 10 miles from the Pacific Ocean. Sedimentary clay and loam soils with chert (whatever chert is). High silica content. Santa Ynez River Basin. Clays promote tannins and structure. Silica yields spicy characteristics. Some transparency in the glass. A little bit of tannin noticeable. Ancien's spiciest Pinot Noir.