2001 Steele Pinot Blanc, Santa Barbara, CA

[wondersofwine]

13% alcohol
light golden color, clear
tangy lemon nose

This wine was a real question mark to me. I had really liked it at a wine shop tasting with Jed Steele last summer. Wasn't so sure when I sampled it at home. Surprisingly thick mouthfeel. Sharp acidic bite on the palate. Was it treated with oak like a Chardonnay? It came across too much like a Chardonnay--sort of smoky/toasty. What should I say? The 2000 Steele Carneros Pinot Noir I had in a restaurant in Florida in October was much better than at the summer tasting in Raleigh. However, I liked the 2001 Pinot Blanc better at the tasting.
It was less balanced and pleasant at home than I remembered from the Raleigh tasting. Is there that much inconsistency from bottle to bottle? I still have some Bien Nacido Pinot Noir and Carneros Pinot Noir and Viognier to try at home.

[Innkeeper]

You mention that you had the noir in a restaurant, so presumably it was with food. That as you know will almost always make a difference from a tasting. How about the blanc? Was it with food at home? Regardless, when at a tasting, I always try to imagine what the wine would be like with food. Still get fooled a lot!

Bottom line, most California Pinot Blanc is made like most California Chardonnay.

[wondersofwine]

I checked Jed Steele's website. The Pinot Blanc is fermented in French oak but only 15% new oak. The neutral oak and less barrel time than Chardonnay is supposed to emphasize the fruit over the wood, but I still found the wood to be too much in evidence. Interesting notes on the Catfish Zinfandel (I was able to buy two bottles of this recently). It is described as a lighter, more berry and bramble wine than some of the old vine rustic Cali zins, almost like a Pinot Noir. (Maybe that's why I like it.) It is suggested to go with pasta dishes, cream sauced dishes and Cioppino. Yet the first time I had it it was with Osso Buco and I thought it matched well with that hearty winter dish.
I did have the Pinot Blanc with food and the 2000 Carneros Pinot Noir with salmon. But before I had even tasted the Pinot Noir it gave off a beautiful aroma as it was poured. At the Raleigh tasting it seemed too light bodied compared to the 1999 vintage I had previously experienced. It may have been suffering from travel shock or in an awkward period. (If it was an awkward period, it had blossomed two months later when I had it in a Florida restaurant.) I went ahead and purchased a bottle of 2000 Carneros Pinot Noir and recently a 2001 so will see how they measure up. I did sample the 2001 during the Triangle Wine Experience (Jed Steele was there) and I think it will be a good vintage once more.