Brief article on Chardonnays

[wondersofwine]

I receive an electronic newsletter from MacArthur Beverages in Washington, DC. The latest newsletter has a nice brief explanation of different styles of Chardonnay and what accounts for the differences (i.e., buttery, oaky California style, minerally Chablis, green apple notes of other Chardonnays, etc.) Actually, Foodie had already explained that distinction for me shortly after I started participating in the Wine Board in discussing malolactic fermentation and the apple elements I noted in a Macon Vire wine. (The green apple crisp or tart character is lost when the vintner goes for malolactic or secondary fermentation which produces a lactic acid and a more buttery or softer, rounder element).

[Randy Caparoso]

It isn't that simple, though. Lots of wines from Burgundy and, say, Santa Barbara go through 100% malolactic fermentation and still retain that crisp, appley quality.

The reason why 100% ML is avoided in places like Carneros, Napa Valley or Sonoma County is because these regions are much warmer than, say, Burgundy and Santa Barbara, and so the fruit they are working with just don't have enough acidity to keep from tasting dull or flabby.

Which is not to say that it can't be done. There are some great North Coast Chardonnay specialists, such as Steve Kistler, Mike Grgich and David Ramey, who do 100% malolactic styles, yet their wines are perfectly crisp, fine, and elegant, with varying nuances of apple, pear, lemon, pineapple, etc. It's a matter of skill in the vineyard and winery, too, you see.

In short, the impact of malolactic fermentation on how a Chardonnay based wine turns out is often over-emphasized. This is just one of many, many variables -- beginning with climate, soil and vintage conditions, and encompassing the almost innumerable details of viticulture and winemaking (re my entry in the "Buttery" thread in the Novice section) -- especially when you are talking about the ultra-premium styles.

[This message has been edited by Randy Caparoso (edited 04-07-2002).]