$75 MAGNIFICANCE (sp?)

[Jerry D Mead]

COLLECTABLE
WINE OF THE WEEK
Joseph Phelps 1995 "Backus Vineyard" Cabernet Sauvignon ($75) A wine for "monster" lovers. On the verge of being "over the top," it is so intense, so concentrated, so showy and such an explosion of flavor in the mouth that it demands big points for quality. Cassis, ripe plum and bittersweet chocolate with lots of smoky, new barrel char complexity. Moderate astringency is balanced to fruit for tremendous cellar potential. I'd guess it will improve for 15-20 years. A good wine to lay away for children born in 1995 to enjoy when they reach their majority. If you must drink it now, match it with strong cheese at the end of the meal as a kind of no-sweet dessert. Rating: 97/82

[Bucko]

I am just now drinking my 84s - good juice, good agers........