Eight CA Cabs - None Blew Me Away - Some Okay

[Bucko]

1994 Kautz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Meritage, California, $25, 1,000 cases -- Pass, no note.

1996 Smith & Hook, Cabernet Sauvignon, Baroness Reserve, Santa Lucia Highlands, $40, 417 cases -- Pass, no note.

1996 Atlas Peak, Cabernet Sauvignon, Consenso Vineyards, Napa Valley, $30, 1,500 cases -- Simple but nice black fruit, hints of cinnamon, moderate tannins, not overoaked, good acidity, fruity aftertaste.

1996 Kendall-Jackson, Cabernet Sauvignon, Vintner's Reserve, California, $21, 260,000 cases -- Decent red and black fruit, light to moderate tannins, balanced oak and a lengthy aftertaste. The best value of the whole lot.

1996 Schug, Cabernet Sauvignon, Heritage Reserve, Sonoma Valley, $40, 497 cases -- Blackberries and plums predominate with a hint of cinnamon, well-balanced oak, and a pretty aftertaste. A nice $30 bottle.

1995 Gallo of Sonoma, Cabernet Sauvignon, Frei Ranch, Dry Creek Valley, $24, 10,500 cases -- Luscious blackberry fruit, obvious but balanced oak, medium tannins that dictate a couple of years of bottle age and a fruity finish. For the price, not bad.

1995 Kenwood, Cabernet Sauvignon, Artist Series, Sonoma, $65, 3,200 cases -- Black fruit and vanilla on the nose, with complex black fruit on the palate, spicy oak and good overall balance. A lovely $38 bottle of wine.

1996 Kendall-Jackson, Grand Reserve, California, $74, 6,539 cases -- Lovely fruit that has been massively overoaked. Made with Jerry Mead in mind, and probably too woody for him.

Bucko