2006 Summers Charbono

[Drew]

Napa Valley.
From Summers web site:
Estate grown on the Summers "Villa Andriana" Vineyard in Calistoga, this rare varietal thought to have originated between the borders of Southeastern France and Northwestern Italy. Now only found growing in about 80 acres of California, half of that in Calistoga. Charbono thrives in the northern end of the Napa Valley. A lovely wine of bold color and bright fruit.

The purpliest of grapes, Charbono, is also the Rodney Dangerfield of varietals...
... just trying to get respect.

The varietal came into prominence in Rutherford in the 1960s and ‘70s when it was produced at the old Inglenook estate (now Francis Coppola’s Rubicon).

The grape, which at times was thought to be Barbera or Dolcetto, has in actuality been identified as the virtually extinct Corbeau, Douce Noire, or Charbonneau that is grown in the Savoie region of France; although it may be related to Dolcetto of Italy’s Piemonte.

It is the second most commonly grown variety in Argentina, where it is known as Bonarda (which is not the same as the Bonarda or even the Charbono grown in the Piemontese region).

As additional evidence of its ageability, the grape is a late-ripener and rarely gets past 13.5 alcohol, which is a revelation in California, when the average red wine finishes at upwards of 14.5 percent.
The Summers Estate vineyard in Calistoga holds a near monopoly on Charbono production in the U.S.Summers reveals that he sometimes blends in as much as 2-3 percent Zinfandel or Petite Sirah.

“Charbono has a nice body, (but Zinfandel) rounds it out,” he declares. “Zin makes the flavors that much more forward.”

Summers uses no more than 10 percent new French and American oak, and he tries to hold his yields to less than four tons per acre. Any more than that, he says, and the fruit can be unattractive.


The color is an amazing black/purple. Flavors of dark fruit, blackberry and raspberry with hints of blueberry, smoke and spice. Very fruit driven and silky with a fresh brightness. Tasted alone I found it nice, well made and almost ordinary but with food it seemed to dance like champion ballroom dancers...never one but the whole. It supported the flavors of the food and became lithe, neither in front of or behind the camera. I found that I started to eat faster to enjoy the give and take of the flavors and textures of the wine and food. Saved half the bottle in a .375 for tonight.
13.2% Alc/vol. A gift from my lovely and around $26. 2000 cases made.

Drew

[Innkeeper]

Used to drink alot of it back when Ingelnook made it (many, many moons ago).

[hotwine]

Sounds like your lovely knocked that one out of the park, Drew. Thanks for killer notes. Will definitely look for it.

[dananne]

August Briggs in Napa is also bottling a stunningly good Charbono. In fact, we got on their mailing list just to get our hands on it. I'll certainly look for this one -- it sounds great!

[wondersofwine]

I posted on a Robert Foley Charbono at the "Howell at the Moon" event I attended in April. I plan to order some bottles from Foley in the fall when the weather cools off.