2003 P. Cottat Sancerre V.V.

[wondersofwine]

IK reported on the 2002 vintage. I tried a 1.5 oz. pour of the 2003 before dinner at Enoteca Vin in Raleigh. I believe the wine shop has it for about $20 the bottle, $17 by the case. Pale and clear in the glass. Nose of grapefruit, faint ammonia and new grass. Flavor of grapefruit lightly dusted with powdered sugar. Less acidic than other vintages but still a true delight.

[Scoop]

2003 was a very tricky year for wine-makers in the Centre. It was, of course, a "summer of the century", and incredibly hot for most of the season -- people dropped like flies in France. When the grapes were picked (late July, early August, in the best cases) was key, especially for retaining the crisp, SB character of Quincy, Reuilly, Sancerre and Pouilly Fume. Having tasted about 60 of these whites in June, only very few succeeded in making wines that resemble the classic notions of Sancerre, etc. The majority are big, tutti frutti, lacking in acidity and approaching something Burgundian. Not that some of these aren't tasty or fun, they're just not what we expect. Some of these will, in fact do very well in our market, but when people taste subsequent, more typical vintages, they'll probably wonder what went wrong!

Nevertheless, where vintners achieved varietal and regional character in the wines in 2003, it is a tribute to their skills, and truly separated the "men from the boys".

Cheers,

Scoop