3 Nice Rhones

[Bucko]

1998 Ferraton, Chateauneuf du Pape, Le Parvis, France, $29. Made in the gamy, peppery style, this CdP has a lot to offer. The wine is 90% Grenache, which adds black currants and blueberry fruit, along with pepper spice. There is a bit of earthiness from the Mourvèdre. Light French vanilla rounds out the wine. 88/88.

1999 Ferraton, Cotes du Rhone, Samorens Rouge, France, $10. You'll get a lot of bang for the buck here. Fruit, fruit and more fruit delights the palate. The wine is in perfect harmony with the acidity and tannins. This is a nice match for hearty chicken dishes. 87/88.

2000 Ferraton, Le Matiniere Blanc, Crozes Hermitage, France, $15. Imagine biting into an apple seed or peach pit and getting those flavors that remind you of almonds. You'll find that and much more in this value wine. The lively acidity of this 100% Marsanne begs for a bowl of clam chowder. 89/91.