Pinot in 1997--Russian River Valley

[Randy Caparoso]

Caesar: Nothing is like Burgundy, which enjoys an enormous range of styles and enviable levels of quality. Generalizations are difficult; but if anything, there is always more potential for ultimate levels of delicacy and complexity in red Burgundy, which invariably make California style Pinot Noirs taste crude and rough by comparison. That's why many Pinot lovers look for Oregon for Burgundy-like quality; and indeed, the better Oregon Pinots (Ken Wright, Archery Summit, Chehalem, Cristom, the "Reserves" of Rex Hill and Erath, to name just some of the many) also make even the better California Pinots taste crude and rough. In virtually every year (unless, of course, you're accustomed to the bigger California style).

For me, Carneros style Pinot Noirs have always been a love/hate thing. There is a tendency towards a sweet/sour cherry varietal quality in the perfume, and a rough, coarse edge in the richer styles. But when the Carneros style is well balanced, it can be quite velvety and compellingly fragrant. In my personal opinion, only Tony Soter's Etude bottlings -- artful blends of optimal plantings -- have consistently achieved this mark in recent years. Some of the bottlings by Cosentino and Gloria Ferrer, however, have surprised even finicky ol' me.

The attraction of Russian River Valley Pinot Noir has no doubt been their multifaceted, spicy varietal definitions, breathy aromas, and broad yet rounded textures. They are often so rich, they are lavished by rather pungent, smoky oak. At their worse, they are dull, hard, and coarsely oaked. Vosne-Romanee wannabes. The quality, in other words, can be mixed; yet very satisfying when good.

If you're interested in a style than bridges the exuberant, intense style of the North Coast with the silky delicacy of Oregon and Burgundy, I would strongly recommend exploring the Pinot Noirs of the Central Coast -- Santa Barbara (made up of Santa Maria Valley and Santa Ynez Valley), and the nearby Edna Valley and San Luis Obispo regions. Producers like Au Bon Climat, Lane Tanner, Foxen, Talley, Costa de Oro, and Fiddlehead regularly hit the bulls eye seemingly with ease. Most of it has to do with the climate -- consistently the coolest in the state -- and the sandy and/or gravelly soils. It also has to do with a strong French-inspired sensibility in the winemaking and viticulture, similar to what you find in Oregon. The wines from this region can be the most powerful from along the West Coast, yet layered in velvet and lace.

My latest personal favorite from the Central Coast? A tiny new winery called Domaine Alfred, planted on the former Chamisal site next door to Talley Vineyards. I recently tasted some winemaker friends up in Oregon on this Pinot, who were extremely impressed by its penetrating perfume, seamless texture, and sheer length of silk and intensity.

But don't forget, as I mentioned earlier, to pay attention to Mendocino and the Sonoma Coast styles during the next few years. They may very well surpass the Russian River Valley, and rival the best from France!

[This message has been edited by Randy Caparoso (edited 06-04-2000).]