Cabernet Franc

[Randy Caparoso]

How we got from Cab Franc to Chancellor and Chambourcin, I'm not sure. But good luck, Nancy!

Foodie's comments on the possibilities of Cab Franc in cool climate regions is interesting. I also like his green olive/olive oil description. I don't think it's an especially flattering quality except as a subtle nuance, but that's a good a description of the grape's vegetal/herbaceous tendencies as you'll get.

But foodie, I think you might have misconstrued slightly when I related herbaceousness to cool or cold climate wine growing. It's true that varietals will tend to have that in cold climates (remember the Monterey Cabernet Sauvignons from the late '70s and early '80s?). But I think it's been shown that if it's at least possible to ripen any grape in a given region, excessive herbaceousness is more likely to be the result of factors such as trellising, canopy and water management. In other words, just good, sensible viticulture and winemaking. The fact that Cabernet Franc performs both wonderfully (lush, concentrated fruit) or extremely poorly (unpleasantly vegetal, unfruity qualities) in regions as climatically varied as the Loire, Bordeaux, Napa Valley, Paso Robles, and (from what I understand) the Finger Lakes is proof of that. Cold or warm climate are negatives only if allowed to be.

For Cabernet Franc, the other major factor is undoubtedly soil. It's the only explanation for the great quality of, say, Bordeaux's Cheval Blanc; and for what we've been seeing recently in California sites like Viader and Justin. Cabernet Franc is ideally situated in very well drained soils.

I've also had second thoughts on my comments on Viader. Although I've been citing it as a great example of Cabernet Franc, obviously that wine has never meant to be a Cab Franc per se. It's meant to express "Viader." But it's a great example of the grape being grown to such a concentration that it can be balanced out, but not overwhelmed, by nearly equal amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon. Just as in Paso Robles, where Justin's Cabernet Franc cuvees are almost across the board denser, more complex and aromatic than, say, their Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. In both cases, the moderately weighted, soft tannin structures and sweet blackcurrant/raspberry liqueur-like flavors of Cabernet Franc are dominant in the blends.

One final winery which I left out who has been making beautiful Cabernet Franc-based blends is Babcock, whose Santa Barbara grown "Fathom" is a fine, velvety, yet generous assemblage (with Cabenet Sauvignon and Merlot). There are definite indications that the dry, fairly cool conditions and sandy, gravelly soils of Santa Ynez Valley are more conducive to high quality Cabernet Franc than Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. One pass through the wineries in the region would convince you of that.

Okay, I'm done!