Cabernet Franc

[Randy Caparoso]

Ah, one of my favorite subjects. I'm a big fan of this grape, which has traditionally been used as a blending grape with other Bordeaux varietals, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. But when produced and bottled to more or less stand on its own, Cabernet Franc generally produces a red wine that is brighter in fruit, lighter in alcohol (therefore light to medium in body), and considerably softer in tannin (therefore easier and ready earlier to drink) than its more famous relation, Cabernet Sauvignon (some ampelographers have theorized that Cabernet Sauvignon diverged from Cabernet Franc in France's Bordeaux region some time in the 17th century).

As for quality, Cabernet Franc by no means produces as consistently as great a wine as Cabernet Sauvignon. Lighter in color, tannin and flavor producing phenolics, it has a tendency to produce rather vegetal (green peppers) and/or cedary ("pencil shavings") aromas and flavors if grown under less than ideal viticultural and/or vintage conditions. But when grown correctly -- in well drained, gravelly soils (particularly slopes) -- it can produce wine with lovely, sweet raspberry or blackcurrant liqueur-like aromas, with its soft, rounded tannins carrying a sleek, silky, fine length of flavors.

Where has Cabernet Franc performed best? The alltime classics are from the deep, gravelly soils of Bordeaux's St. Emilion district, where Cabernet Franc based reds (usually blended with 10% to 40% Merlot) are able to achieve great elegance -- never as heavy or as thick as the Cabernet Sauvignon based wines of the neighboring Pauillac! -- and black as well as red fruit concentrations.

In the more northerly, cooler Anjou-Touraine region along the Loire River, 100% Cabernet Franc reds bottled under appellation names such as Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur-Champigny tend to be lighter and easier; and in colder years (unfortunately, more often than not), with a somewhat bellpeppery herbaceousness. But under good conditions -- lower yields, good winemaking, good weather, etc. -- the Loire styles can be exceptionally fresh, fruity (spicy, almost jammy raspberry flavors), smooth, and best of all, extremely food versatile (their moderate weights, crisp edges and soft tannins making them almost as good with fish as with red meats). For a sure footed introduction, I strongly recommend the Chinons produced by Charles Joguet, or the Bourgueils by Pierre Breton (both imported by Kermit Lynch in Berkeley, but available in all major markets).

In California, I'm afraid that for now consumers are bound to find a mixed bag. In Napa Valley, some of the more experienced hands with this varietal (such as Nelson, Cosentino, and Francis Coppola Family) have been producing some fine, smooth, rich varietal bottlings. But for every new producer (such as Lang & Reed) who are producing something special, there are probably two or three dishing out overcropped, vegetal, uninteresting, red colored stuff. As for blends, I think it is generally conceded that Viader (a spectacular hillside vineyard off Howell Mt. road, planted to Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon) is producing the smoothest, noblest, yet most concentrated expression of the grape -- rivaling the best of Bordeaux!

Further south in California, however, there are solid indications that the Cabernet Franc may be tailor made for the gravelly, chalky hillsides of Paso Robles (Justin's "Justification," blended with 35%-45% Merlot, is a velvety rich beauty).

So that's it. I've probably missed a few noteworthy names, which others may want to throw in. Hope this helps! Enjoy!

[This message has been edited by Randy Caparoso (edited 08-19-99).]