comparing German wines to US wines

[Randy Caparoso]

My reading, Chris and foodie, is basically that you can't really compare Rieslings grown in Germany with those grown in California or anywhere else along the West Coast (I don't have the knowledge to speak about any other part of the U.S.). Most of the German wine growing regions are much cooler than any region along the West Coast, and consequently develop wines with easily more intense fragrance and flavor, not to mention higher levels of acidity and an intrinsic sense of balance and delicacy (particularly due to the lower alcohol levels -- 9%-11% as opposed to California's 11%-13% -- at which they are able to express themselves).

Therefore, Rieslings that are picked at "normal" levels in California -- usually resulting in slightly to medium sweet wines (.6% to 2.5% residual sugar) -- actually correspond to wines picked at sugar levels qualifying as Spatlese ("late picked) to Auslese ("special late picked) in Germany. Generally speaking, of course, since the major regions within Germany also vary.

Confusing the matter, a number of the better German producers are now making their Spatlese and even Auslese wines into halbtrocken ("half dry") or even "trocken" (dry) wines -- all in all, even dryer than California wines picked at similar sugar levels!

Now that I've crossed myself up, here's one guideline:

1. Wines that Germans would consider Spatlese or Auslese are usually called "Late Harvest Riesling" in places like California. These wines (from both places) are invariably fairly sweet (at least 3% residual sugar)... but not always, of course.

2. A "regular" California Riesling (no special designations except for the name of the grape) usually corresponds to a Kabinett, QbA (Qualitatswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete) or QmP (Qualitatswein mit Pradikat) level Riesling in Germany; that is, approximately 1% to just over 2% residual sugar.

3. "Ice Wine" (or eiswein in Germany) does not refer to an actual level of sugar at picking, but simply the fact that the wine was partially frozen on the vine. It's a similar type situation as the presence of botrytis (or edefaule in Germany). Ice wines can occur at sugar levels ranging anywhere from Spatlese to Trockenbeerenauslese (well over 10% residual sugar); just as botrytis can occur (or NOT occur) within this entire range of picking level. But in spite of the varying sugar levels, one can usually expect an ice wine to be pretty darned sweet, yet uniquely light, almost ethereal in balance and breadth of perfume.

For the the most clearly stated introduction to German wine terms, by the way, I always recommend Hugh Johnson's classic Wine Atlas of the World.

[This message has been edited by Randy Caparoso (edited 05-28-99).]