Great California Chardonnay

[Randy Caparoso]

Wines by Sine Qua Non are sold strictly to mailing list customers only. I believe (and afraid to say), that there is probably a waiting list to get on the mailing list. You see, the quantities produced number in only the hundreds of cases (6 packs, even). I would surmise that the price at Pop's is due to the fact that their meager supply was also bought via mailing list -- hence the extraordinary price.

Each year Sine Qua gives a new name, and label, to its white and red cuvees. The "Twisted & Bent" is actually a blend of Chardonnay and Roussanne -- powerful, thick, viscous, lusciously aromatic and flavorful. Rare quality, miniscule supply, huge price. The "Imposter McCoy" is almost pure Syrah (I surmise, since the owners are sketchy on the makeup) -- hugely tannic, but also thick, sweetly concentrated and inundated with peppery, perfumey spice. Neither wine, mind you, is for the faint of heart.

Needless to say, I confess to be a mailing list customer. You can find it in our restaurants in Hawaii only. And for way less than Pop's!