Cork vs. Screwcap

[Randy Caparoso]

Well, when it comes to "experts" you'll find that there are all kinds. Certainly, the CQC, producers, distributors, marketers, retailers, restaurateurs, and (can't forget them!) journalists will all have their opinions when it comes to the cork vs. screw cap question. But here's what I think is kind of a consensus:

1. Most of us wish we could continue to use natural cork as bottle closures. Like wine itself, cork is a completely natural product, and it's worked quite well over a long time (although certainly not forever) as a great way to keep oxygen out of bottles and at the same time express all the aesthetics associated with this unique product of nature.

2. Although the CQC may not be in complete agreement, there appears to be substantial amount of evidence that contaminated natural corks are the direct cause of some 5% of wines (it was probably up to 10% 10-15 years ago) exhibiting the symptoms of "corkiness" (i.e. tasting more like wet cardboard than fresh fruit derived wine).

3. Whether its 5%, 1%, or 10%, it would be sheer stupidity to continue to bottle wines under such detrimental circumstances. So as we are already seeing, more and more producers are gravitating towards artificial closures which perform the same function of cork, but of course are much cleaner.

4. So far, consumer acceptance of wines in artificial corks has been quite positive (that is, they don't seem to care!). However, virtually all the wines merchandised with these closures represent the lower priced (under $14 average retail) end of the industry. There have been very few, isolated exceptions (such as, say, Erath's "Reserve" Pinot Noirs) put out by producers who, frankly, don't give a damn about what people think about plastic... they just want clean wine!

5. As for the possibility of upper tier, prestige wines -- like Ridge Monte Bello, Robert Mondavi Reserve, Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, Gaja Barbaresco, etc. -- ever being bottle by anything but 100% natural, high quality cork, I wouldn't hold my breath. There's something almost universally sacrilegious about the idea of Lafite in, say, a bright purple plastic stopper.

6. By the same token, there is something seriously wrong with the idea of a mere "screwcap" for fine wine. No one (that I know of) is moving towards that because it will probably never be accepted by consumers.

But think about this: Invariably someone will come up with something which is completely revolutionary and just as effective as natural cork for the stopping of oxygen in bottles. This something will probably be more aesthetically pleasing than both artificial corks and screw caps since it will neither offend anyone's sensibilities nor "pretend" to be a cork.

My own guess is that it will involve another form of natural material -- perhaps a metal or alloy -- which will perform the practical function of preventing oxidation before, during and even after dispensing, and it will also be designed to be completely unique to wine. It will also probably be a little pricey, but very few will object since it will be a lot better than anything used before. I had this discussion with winemaker Ken Wright in Oregon recently. Naturally, I told him that I hope they call it the "Cap-Aroso."

But think about it. It might take a few years, but it's bound to happen. We can send objects to other planets, after all. Surely can we not eventually come up with something new for the packaging of wine that is not only full-proof, not only a thing of beauty, but also expressive of the ingenuity of man working hand in hand with nature?

[This message has been edited by Randy Caparoso (edited 05-24-99).]