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[Bucko]

Older Silver Oaks have aged well from the 70s and early 80s. I have less impressed with the winery over the last several years.

"Great" is in the eye of the beholder. One that might fit the bill is the 1998 Clos Du Val, Cabernet Sauvignon, Vineyard Georges III, Rutherford, Napa Valley, California, $55, 2,000 cases. Deeply colored, with aromas of blackberry, mint and perhaps a touch of blueberry. Full-bodied and quite elegant, the tannins are substantial yet glide over the palate with a velvety touch. Black fruit, coffee, mint, and an ever so slight amount of herbaceousness define the flavor profile. An excellent effort from a "tough" vintage year. 92/89.

Another -- 1997 Hess Collection, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mount Veeder, Napa Valley, California, $35, 15,000 cases. Deeply colored, with splendid aromas of licorice, plum blackberry and cedar. Elegant on the palate, with full flavors of black cherry, blackberry, mocha, and French oak. The tannins are silky, the finish long. Classic California Cabernet. 91/94.