Is merlot really passe??

[Innkeeper]

In the June 2005 edition of “Wine & Spirits” there is an evaluation of current American Merlots. They took 221 wines tasted and forwarded by a blind tasting panel and rated 36 or a whopping 16% of them. These included 30 from California and 6 from Washington State. The ratings ranged from 83 to 94. The highest rated was the 2002 Woodward Canyon Columbia Valley Merlot ($32.50). The 83 rating went to 2002 Dynamite Vineyards North Coast Merlot ($17); and it was described thusly: “A soft, cherry-scented red, this light merlot has a brisk green edge. For a roast beef sandwich.” If that description went to one of the rated wines, can you imagine what the other 84% are like? The words “soft”, “warm”, and “gentle” are all synonyms for “flabby.” These words turn up in the descriptions of several of the rated wines. I rest my case.