Learning about wine

[Randy Caparoso]

Sorry, gentlemen. Hate to be a naysayer (seriously!), but research by professors like Amerine and Baldy at U.C., Davis as well as the oenologists led by Peynaud at the Bordeaux Institute of Oenology have led them to the conclusion that glycerol plays such a minor role in the textural content of wine that it basically never contributes to the phenomenon of "legs" (or "tears," as the Brits would say); nor does it add significantly to the feel of wine on the palate other than slight sensations of sweetness. The capillary action that causes even free-standing wine to "rise" up the sides of the glass (and to cling when wine is swirled) coincides strictly with levels of alchohol. Obviously, the scientists base their conclusions upon experiments involving wines with varying degrees of natural glycerol as well as alcohol. In his book, The Taste of Wine, Peynaud does acknowledge the fact that glycerol is commonly cited as a contributor to legs; but he finds this belief "surprising"... a "myth, carefully fostered by professionals" that "dies hard."

I, for one, wouldn't argue with these guys. But what is it exactly that you are talking about, Foodie? Would you be referring to the visual appeal of late harvest, botrytis style sweet wines of moderate alcohol (8%-10%) and elevated sugar (8% or more) and glycerol (most certainly a byproduct of this grape mold)? My wife gave a word for this long ago -- she calls them "sheets," because she thinks of the look of golden, sweet wine (like Riesling beerenauslese) rolling against the glass as sexy. The rivulets in this case are a little different -- broader, with obviously less surface tension but no less striking; reflective, however, of high sugar/glycerol content rather than alcohol. But I'm sure this is not what the professors are talking about when they talk about their legs, tears or arcs.

[This message has been edited by Randy Caparoso (edited 06-06-2000).]