Learning about wine

[Randy Caparoso]

Chuck, san: Look on page 35 of The University Wine Course (great book!) for a thorough explanation of "legs." The author, Professor Baldy, is primarily citing previously published work by Professor Maynard Amerine (the longtime, departed dean of oenologist at U.C., Davis), who himself concurs with the observations of one James Thomson in 1855. Briefly, because alcohol is more volatile than water, the aqueous liquid formed along the sides of the glass create a fine film of higher surface tension. Therefore, the higher the alcohol content in a wine, the more visible incidence of "legs" or "tears"; and this remains a constant (until you drink all the wine down!). The important thing to remember is that legginess is not an indication of quality -- just of higher alcohol. There are great wines made at only 4%-8% alchohol, and horrible ones at 14%-18%; and vice versa. Nor are legs indicative of glycerol content, as many believe, which contributes a mildly sweet taste and adds a tiny bit to a wine's feel of "flesh" (although flavor extract and other phenolics are the major textural factors in fine wine).

For wine, aromatic sensations vary widely dependent upon a complexity of interrelated factors, including serving temperature, specific wine type, shape of glass, and each individual's tasting capacity. Not even the scientists at U.C., Davis consider this a precise subject. Because of their lower tannin and phenolic content, white wines release maximum levels of aroma quite easily at 40 to 50 degree (Farenheit) temperatures, whereas it's somewhere between 56 and 70 degrees for reds -- but really, dependent upon the varietal, winemaking style (such as use of oak), vineyard sourcing, etc., etc. Generally, glasses with larger bowls tend to collect more vapors and thus give more aromatic sensations. But as with everything, quantity is not everything. It is not necessary, for instance, to smell Chardonnay in a 25 oz. round shaped bowl; a narrower, 12-16 oz. shape more than suffices. A big, well oaked, high tannin Cabernet Sauvignon may need to be served at 68 degrees to give maximum fruitiness and complexity, but at 78 degrees the nose may begin to detect rawer smells of alcohol which may not be so desirable; and of course, shape and size of glass will alter the effects. Then there is the temperature of the room itself, plus how the individual components of each wine affects the odorferous effect in the mouth as the wine suddenly warms and sends additional flavor sensations to the olfactory and brain. Palate sensations of acid (tart), sugar (sweetness/dryness) and tannin (bitterness/hardness/astringency) will also alter or influence the brain's perception of aroma and flavor, and are equally affected by temperature (bitter at cooler temperatures, sugar and acid at higher).

Last but not least is each individual's memory and ability to identify aromas. Most people can detect as much as a 1000 nuances of smell at a time, but only identify a handful, which is highly dependent upon taste experience (cooks and gardeners, for instance, tend to be great natural tasters, if only because they have always been forced to focus more on ingredients, flora and fauna). Think about it. If you can't identify a smell, you certainly don't notice it. We may not be canines, but the human nose is extraordinarily sensitive, able to detect smells of ingredients in foods and wines in quantites as little as 4 parts per trillion!

Therefore, the issue of whether a wine's "nose" increases with exposure to air is highly contentious. Wine experts have always said that wine can "breathe" and improve with air, and there is a lot to be said about the miniscule effect of oxygen (in concert with temperature change) on physical elements in wine (especially higher tannin wines). But in my own opinion (an opinion, remember!), these effects are indeed miniscule. A more significant factor in the improvement of wine taste resulting from this so-called "breathing" has more to do with the human variability. The mind does indeed often take time to identify smells and flavors, and the palate itself can quickly become conditioned by sensations of sweetness/dryness, tartness/roundness, bitterness/softness, saltiness, and even the so-called "fifth" taste of "umami" (more of the instinctive "savory" effect). Therefore, wines are very much apt to "improve" as the taster's ability to identify taste improves!

But tasting, mind you, is not, and should not be, a complicated task. I suggest that you seek pleasure. Go back over and over to the wines you enjoy, but also keep in mind that increased experience and exposure to a variety of wine types (especially in combination with a variety of food types!) are only bound to enhance your pleasure.

Final advice: Read your Baldy! After that, pick up Michael Broadbent's little pocketbook called Wine Tasting (aside from Emile Peynaud's more technically minded The Taste of Wine, the most authoritative book purely on wine tasting that I know).

And that's all, folks!

[This message has been edited by Randy Caparoso (edited 06-02-2000).]