What characteristics are the least subjective?

[Innkeeper]

I would vote for alcohol for a couple of reasons. First, if you notice or don't notice the alcohol, the wine is out of balance. If you get heat, there is too much alcohol in relation to the rest of the wine. If the wine tastes flacid, it is usually because the alcohol doesn't give enough pizazz.

The second thing about alcohol is that it is a primary indicator of body. Generally speaking the higher the alcohol, the fuller the body. Other factors play as well, but alcohol is the only thing printed on the label of the wine that gives you a hint of the body of the wine.

[This message has been edited by Innkeeper (edited 06-10-2003).]