Traveling to Italy

[RAD]

Hi Soon--

I'm envious! My wife and I honeymooned in Italy in May 1999, visiting many of the areas that you're going. I'll make both some winery and restaurant recommendations (if you don't mind [img]http://www.wines.com/ubb2/biggrin.gif[/img] ).

Near Sienna, I'd try to visit Cesani Vincenzo, which is actually in San Gimignano, not far by. Their Luenzo is a great Sangiovese that I like. Doubtless there are many others, but I do like that wine.

In the Chianti area just to the north, you'll find several wineries, including Castello di Ama, Castello di Volpaia, and Badia a Coltibuono (neat old castle with a good little restaurant where you can sit outside).

In Florence, there is a great wine bar called Volpe e l'Uva (Piazza de' Rossi; tel 055.23.98.132) just across the Ponte Vecchio, south of the Arno. There is an older guy who works there--Gianni, if I remember correctly--with a great shock of grey hair like Einstein, only a bit more coiffed. He is a pleasure to talk to, speaks decent English, and will be more than happy to tell you all about Italian wines--he'll probably have a glass with you!

A great trattoria in Florence is Trattoria La Casalinga (via dei Michelozzi 9/r; tel 055.21.86.24), where you'll get cheap, no frills--and good!--homestyle Italian cooking. A great place to stop for lunch, or an inexpensive dinner.

For dinner, I highly recommend Omero (via Pian dei Giullari 11/r; tel 055.22.00.53), which is located in the Oltrarno section of Florence, south of the Arno river, right across from the place where Galileo was exiled. It sits high on a hill overlooking Florence and the surrounding countryside. Traditional Florentine food; there's a small salumeria-type grocery at the entrance.

In Florence, you MUST MUST MUST go to Carabè (Via Ricasoli 60/r; tel 055.289.476), about 500m north of the Duomo, for the best gelato in all of Italy. More flavors of gelato and granita than you can shake a stick at. I tried about 12 different kinds--no kidding--and the owner treats the offerings as a kind of religion, steadfastly refusing some of my requests for different combinations. They're all otherworldly.

In Milano, you must go to Buccon di Vino, a play on words meaning both "Divine Bite" and "A bite of wine." (sorry, cannot find address or phone, even on the Internet). Again, traditional fare. You're served about 6 or 7 different courses--cheeses, salamis, prosciuttos, pastas--each wiht its own wine. I believe they only have 1 sitting per night. Wonderful.

Finally, I'd recommend "Eating In Italy" by Faith Heller Willinger (ISBN 0-688-14614-7). It focuses on Northern Italy (Tuscany and north), and breaks each region down by its regional foods and wine.

Have fun!

RAD