fajitas

[Randy Caparoso]

Nancy,

Well, now that we're on the subject... The largest grower of Lemberger or Blue Franc (the literal translatin of Blaufrankisch, the Austrian name for Lemberger) in Washington St. is Hogue Cellars. They used to make a very simple, fruity wine out of it; but the past two years they've put out a "Blue Franc" Lemberger under their specialty Genesis label (so I just call it Hogue "Genesis"). This bottling is a little firmer and richer than the Shooting Star, but not as friendly. Like the Shooting Star, however, the Genesis bottling has the typical grated black peppercorn/strawberry jam aroma of Lemberger, soft tannin and fairly elevated, zesty acidity (although not as high as, say, a typical Barbera's acidity). It's the kind of qualities that once made people speculate a kinship to either Gamay or Pinot Noir; when in reality (according to the ampelographers putting their magnifying glass to the leaf structures), Blaufrankisch/Lemberger is... unique unto itself! And of course, very versatile on the table.

There are also, by the way, a number of Austria producers who work with a grape called Blauer Zweigelt, which is a clonal cross of Blaufrankisch and something else. This wine tends to be even lighter than pure Blaufrankisch, but with surprisingly (to me) friendly, lush, peppery fruitiness. Very drinkable and nouveau-like. I've seen a good one out in the Western markets made by Heinrich. 'Nuff ampelographical chatter!