fajitas

[Randy Caparoso]

Nancy, several ways to handle spicy meats:

1. Bubbles - which Bucko hit right on the mark. If one of the meats is slightly oily beef, it might be a good time to try something completely exotic -- like Aussie sparkling reds, which would supply a modicum of tannin as well as zesty, Champenoise style effervescence. While the '96 D'Arenberg Sparkling Chambourcin is the lightest, dryest and most refreshing, the Yalumba Sparkling Burgundy offers broad, blackberry flavors and the '93 Seppalt "Harpers Rouge" Sparkling Shiraz has a lush aroma and mild but interesting bitter/sweet edge.

2. Slightly sweet whites or pinks -- especially if you're heavy handed with the red chili peppers. Nothing douses a tingling hot tongue like a touch of sugar buoyed by tingling acidity; although I'm sure that you're like me, and you don't like a lot of sweetness. The De Loach White Zinfandel, for instance, has just a whisper of sugar, but lots of fresh berry flavor and the slightest edge of bitterness (which would work great with the oily meats). From Down Under, both the Leeuwin Riesling (Australia's Margaret River) and the Villa Maria "Private Reserve" White Riesling (New Zealand) are just off-dry, combining crisp acidity with a little bit more body than what you normally find in Germany; although some of the contemporary Rheinpfalz halbtrockens (such as Basserman-Jordan's Kabinett and Von Buhl's Forster Pechstein) are made dryer (yet still off-dry) and a little fuller than what has been traditionally seen.

3. Soft, easy, lusciously fruity reds -- in this case, going for a bare minimum of tannin (to avoid fighting the chili) and youthful exuberance. Gamays and Valdiques are naturals, of course (check out Shooting Star, J. Lohr, Bonny Doon's "Clos de Gilroy" or the brand new Gallo-Sonoma Valdique). For something different, there are all kinds of wonderful "alternative" varietals. I recommend the Montevina "Brioso" (nouveau style Zin), a Refosco (a varietal with billowing cherry liqueur and espresso-smoke aromas) by either Montevina or Il Podere dell Olivos, Jed Steele's Shooting Star "Blue Franc" Lemberger, a Dolcetto by Per Sempre or Kent Rasmussen's "Ramsey," and last but not least (well, for me), a good Blaufrankisch from Austria (such as Pannonia's)

Sorry -- getting carried away again, recommending enough wine for an entire regiment. Might as well make it Fajita Night to end all nights!