Zinfandel and Carignan Research

[Randy Caparoso]

Hi, Jeneroo!

Haven't heard from you for a while.

Regarding Zinfandel, there isn't much more to add to Curmudgeon's description. Top quality California Zinfandels are indeed quite full in alcohol, and attain a luscious, velvety texture to go with their intensely berryish, almost jammy (i.e. raspberry or blackberry preserves) fruit and blackpeppery (sometimes cinnamon and clove-like) spiciness. But even lighter, moderately intense Zinfandel can be delightfully fresh, zesty, and flavorful.

From what I understand, several Australian wineries are now experimenting with Zinfandel (I tried one at Hardy's four years ago), although it's still a big controversy as to where Zinfandel as a grape originated. Vine scientists (ampelographers) know that it is a member of the European vitis vinifera, and that it is grown in parts of southern Italy (such as Apulia) where it is known as Primitivo. However, evidence suggests that Primitivo arrived in Italy fairly recently (whereas Zinfandel has been cultivated in California since the mid 19th century). Recent frequent visitors (such as Mike Grgich of Napa Valley's Grgich Hills) to the nearby coastal regions of Croatia are pretty sure that Zinfandel is the same grape as Plavic Mali, which appears to have had a longer history there. Although the red wines made in Croatia are strikingly similar to California's Zinfandel, so far scientists have not made able to ascertain the relationship (initial DNA findings, for instance, are coming up negative).

One thing I can tell you for sure: there is absolutely no relationship between Zinfandel and Carignane except for the fact that both varieties have been cultivated in California for some time. Carignane -- known as Carignano in Italy and Carinena in Spain -- is probably most important as a blending grape in Spain and parts of South-West France (especially the Languedoc-Roussillon). It is also an important grape in Algeria. By itself, Carignane tends to produce a wine that is extremely high in alcohol, tannin, color and acidity -- everything, as Jancis Robinson puts it, "but flavour and charm." She does not exaggerate. Even when Carignane achieves a modicum of flavor, it tends to be a rather overbearing, overripe, sweet, perfumey cherry quality. Personally, I am not even that fond of red wines in which Carignane plays just a small part (it is often blended with Syrah and Mourvedre in both California and France), since it tends to push those kinds of blends towards that annoyingly sweet tone.

There are, however, some exceptions. From some very old, extremely low yielding plantings in California and France, even 100% can be somewhat interesting. The best I've ever had has been the Domaine d'Aupilhac "Le Carignane" cuvee from the Languedoc (imported by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley); which is a full, powerful, fleshy, deep toned, wild tasting red of astonishing breadth and depth.

Hope this information helps!