Winery info

[Randy Caparoso]

Nancy, I agree that you just can't go wrong with the Conde de Valdemar for around $7-$8. Year after year, a genuine value -- simple, but soft, a little earthy, satisfying. There's a good Central American style restaurant in Eugene, OR (Cafe Navarro) where it is always my wine of choice -- the wine's earthy tones go great with the earthy flavors of the food.

I wish I could say something about the Martin Vouvray; except if it's demi-sec, it's slightly sweet (2%3% residual sugar), and if it's sec it's pretty much dry (less than 1%) but a little tart (since even in good years, Vouvrays can't hold down their acidity too well). So you should make your food adjustments according to that (i.e. use lively vinaigrettes, as in antipasto's and fruit/nut salads, to balance sec styles, and creamy or slightly sweet reductions with demi-sec style Vouvrays). Personally, I consider the most reliable Vouvrays to be those by Clos du Bourg (labeled "Le Haut Liu", and truly the most refined), Champalou (a house with an intense, minerally, lively style), and the ubiquitous (but decent) Chateau Moncontour.

Regarding the Perrin's -- wish I could strongly recommend them. But I find them to be rather weak, almost unpleasant. Cast-off cuvees, if you want my opinion. Here's an inside scoop: look for the new red wines (haven't tried the whites yet) from the Perrin project in Paso Robles called Tablas Hills. The '95 Tablas "Cuvee Rouge" is a soft, plush, highly drinkable blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre; for around $14-$15!

Finally, Villa di Capezzana -- a house that truly brings a smile to my face. Few Tuscan estates are as consistent across the board -- even those from the more famous Chianti Classico region. In other words, if you drink Capezzana, I would stick to those of the Carmignano (as opposed to Chianti) district, which is made up of slightly warmer lower riding hillsides that give the Sangiovese grape a warmer, fuzzier texture, and make them nearly perfect for blending with 8%-20% Cabernet Sauvignon (which has been the custom in Carmignano long before the advent of "Super Tuscans").

Some recent notes:

1996 Villa di Capezzana, Carmignano ($15-$18) - lush cherry with minty herb and smoky leaf in the nose; suave, round feel supported by soft, moderate tannin.

1995 Villa di Capezzana, Carmignano Riserva ($23-$26) - Deeper, more intense red cherry Sangiovese nose; muscular, medium-full feel and tannin, yet nicely rounded in the finish.

1997 Capezzana, "Barco Reale di Carmignano" ($9-$12) - A real steal, with sweet red cherry fragrance tinged by light leathery qualities; easy, medium body; has less fruit intensity than the two previous wines, but has gentle, satisfying, glove leathery flavors.

1995 Capezzana, "Ghiae della Furba" ($38-$45) - This is not a Sangiovese based wine, but their 40% Cabernet Sauvignon/30% Cabernet Franc/30% Merlot version of a "Super Tuscan." But unlike most wine of this genre, Capezzana's house style makes it elegant, round and plush. Yet it's plenty powerful -- luscious, concentrated black cherry aroma with suede leather nuances; gripping, slightly chewey full body and tannin; smoky (cigar-ish) and succculent in the finish. Big bucks, but quite an experience!

Enough? Hope so.