good wine for chinese food

[Randy Caparoso]

Okay, guys. You've driven me out of my cave. Been on the road a lot recently, and more than a little depressed by our fearless leader's (Jerry Mead) passing on to greener pastures.

Actually, the last few times I've eaten Chinese, I've been extremely surprised by the performance of Rhone style REDS -- especially Gigondas and St. Joseph from France, Shiraz from Australia, and softer Grenache/Syrah/Mourvedre blends from California -- with dishes like pork, beef or even shrimp in sweet toned natural sauces, with crispy vegetables and/or water chestnuts, with seasonings like Chinese 5 spice and hoisin. Power against power, along with sweetness of the dishes against sweetness of red wine fruit flavor.

But still, by and large, the easiest bets with Chinese dishes overall have been:

1. German Riesling Kabinett or Halbtrocken

2. Soft, Rhone style reds from France, California or Australia

Sauvignon Blanc? Too severe, and doesn't have the intrinsic sweetness of fruitiness.

Bucko, of course, is the voice of experience. HIS experience. Nothing wrong with that, of course. I agree that Alsatian grown Pinot Gris has the fullness and sweetness fo natural fruit flavor to match the richest Chinese dishes (especially the porks). But Alsatian grown Gewurztraminer? To me, that's always a stretch -- too much alcohol and natural grape bitterness to match the sweet/sour qualities common to Chinese cooking.

To each it's own. I'll see you soon in Healdsburg, I guess, Bucko! We can commensurate together!