Wine with sushi

[Randy Caparoso]

That's a tough one. I don't know the proprieties of sake-with-sushi. But I'm sure cold sake doesn't count with the old rules, since it's a fairly recent phenomenon -- and perfectly delicious with sake. How can that be wrong?

Oh, and Bucko: Unfortunately I'd have to side with Curmudgeon on the Viognier issue. I've yet to taste a delicate, low key Viognier -- in fact, searing alcohol levels and soaring perfumes are par for the course -- which would make them somewhat intrusive with lightly delicate sushi.

By the way, Curmudgeon: Made a very pleasant discovery on a pass through Paso Robles last week -- the '97 Treana "Mer Soleil Vineyard" Marsanne/Viognier. They list the Marsanne first, but the Viognier is actually 60% of the blend. But guess what? The Viognier is brought totally in control by the Marsanne in this blend. So instead of that heated, drugstore perfumey character of dominant Viognier, you get a juicy, luscious, honeyed wine with real flesh and crispness (and Viognier is rarely "crisp"), a tropical fruit and apricot pit center, and creamy, floral nuances in the nose. Pricey (about $22 retail), but a surprisingly delicious winemaking feat. But don't get me wrong -- it's not a sushi wine. But with miso marinated wood grilled salmon with, say, wasabi mashed potatoes... yum. Too bad Nobu Matsuhisa doesn't do takeout!