Wine with sushi

[Randy Caparoso]

Fusion, schmusion, Jason. I eat tons of the stuff (as do all islanders), and I can say that the best wines (aside from sake, chilled or warm) in descending order are:

1. Extra Dry (Moet White Star) of creamy smooth Brut (Deutz, Iron Horse, et al.) Champagnes. Something about the yeasty, lively sparkle with the subtle vinegars in the rice, the sweet/heat spice of ginger, and the slap of wasabi with... magic!

2. Off-dry German Rieslings (preferably Kabinetts and halbtrockens). As with Champagne, the natural acidity and sugars balance the vinegars and sweetness of the mirins, and the relative lightness of these wines underline the lightness of the foods.

3. Minerally, lighter style Loire River Sauvignon Blancs (especially Sancerre, Quincy and Cheverny). Again, acidity is the key; and the flinty qualities of the grape usually underscore the saline qualities of the fish (especially the salmon caviar and shrimp). Heavier style California Sauvignon Blancs do not work so well; but less extravagant New Zealand styles (such as Giesen and Villa Maria) work well in a pinch.

4. With salmon, ahi tuna, and avocado-stuffed California rolls, fairly well chilled Beaujolais is very nice -- especially Nouveau, and lighter grand crus (such as Fleurie and Julienas). What most people tend to underestimate about good French Gamay Noir is that it usually has lively, palate freshening acidity on top of almost sweet fruitiness and (of course) minimal tannin -- all of which work well with fleshy fish and new fangled forms of "California" sushi.

No big mystery! All of the above are tried-and-true!