Cleonice Bistro Ellsworth

[Innkeeper]

Last night we participated in “A Taste of France Wine Dinner” at the Cleonice Mediterranean Bistro in Ellsworth (thirty miles away). The proprietor was last at Jonathan’s in Blue Hill, where he put on affairs like this a couple of years ago, and he took his mailing list with him to Ellsworth. It was well worth the trip.

Hors d’Oeuvres consisted of several goodies including puff pastry stuffed with sun dried tomatoes, chevre, and basil; mussels with roasted red pepper; and brochettes of pulverized dry cured olives and another with dry cod paste. They offered a choice of Domaine St Peyre Blanc, Picpoul de Pinet 2001 or Chateau de Calce, Cotes du Roussillon 2000. We were familiar with the Picpoul de Pinet so we opted for the red. It was our first Cotes du Roussillon. It was light and refreshing, and went well with tidbits. It reminded me of a Cotes du Provence with a little pepper.

Next came a Salad of Endive, Chevre, and Bacon. It was served with Veget, Bourgogne Blanc Terrior d’Cotes d’Or 2002. Both were excellent, but did not match. The salad was heavily peppered, and the chardonnay was light and delicate. I ended up taking a bite of salad, washing in down with water, clearing palate with a piece of bread, and then taking a sip of wine. Sigh!

Then we were served Filet of Rainbow Trout with Brown Butter and Capers. It was matched with Domaine de La Madonne, Beaujolais Villages, 2001. It was the best fish we’ve had in a long time, and the Beaujolais from a small producer was outstanding. Get your ‘01s while you can.

The entrée was Medallions of Lamb Loin with a Roasted Shallot Glaze and a Gratin of Parsnips. With it came Chateau Villerambert Julien, Minervois, 2000. The lamb was stupendous. The wine was fantastic too. It was billed as a syrah/grenache blend, but I’m pretty sure it had the underpinnings of carignan normally found in Minervois. Did not take anything away from the wine which was lush with fruit, minerals, and spice.

Dessert was a Flourless Chocolate Torte matched with Mes Amiel Maury 10 Year Cuvee Speciale. Our heads are still swimming! A Maury is a cousin of Banyuls. It is actually a larger AVA, but only has a handful of independent producers like Mes Amiel among the coops. Like Banyuls it is basically a fortified late harvest grenache. This one was aged a long time. Have no idea what this one or any of the other wines cost. I do know that Georgie would sell her third graders into slavery for this one.

We were offered refills on all the wines, even refills of refills in a couple of cases. We were also provided with a choice of still or fizzy bottled water throughout.

The cost was $50 per person, so the tax and tip it came to $127 for the evening. As I said at the top, we think it was well worth it.