California Trip

[Innkeeper]

Landed in LA around noon on Wednesday 11/29. After checking out the rolling stock from Alamo went VFR direct to 2933 Santa Monica Blvd. Roberto turned out to be a very nice guy though as busy as any one we've ever seen in a wine store. He did take the time to find the mixed case I had selected from his catalog on the airplane, including bubblies for Christmas and New Years. We were all set to get out of his hair when Mrs IK found a beautiful box that happened to contain six bottles of a Chilean Cabernet. Roberto assured her that the wine was "very nice", so, not wanting to cause a scene, bought it too. Can't tell you how many things I've eaten and drunk just so she could get the box!

We proceeded up to Vandenberg for the night, and bright and early the next morning we took off for Paso Robles. The first stop was Bonny Doon at the Sycamore Farms. Fantastic place, and the sort that the whole family could enjoy; goats, herb gardens, great gift shop run by the Sycamore folks. The tasting room was hosted by Cindy Graham (no relation to Randall), and she was the most knowledgeable person we met in a tasting room on the trip. Found out that the wine club had used up all the 1999 Barbera except for a few left in the tasting room. This pattern was repeated at other stops. Anyhow we left with the barbera, riesling, pinot gris, and a dessert wine called Club Montonico. Mrs IK did a number on the gift shop.

Next stop was Peachy Canyon. It was quite a job deciding which of four or five zins at practically the same price we liked best. We finally both agreed on the 1997 Lakeview Vineyard. Also picked up their '98 Sangiovese. Then it was off to Arciero. Here we found another spectacular gift shop, with all their wines spread out amongst the other goodies. We tasted their whole line as well as the upper scale EOS Wines. We ended up with Arciero Zinfandel, Nebbiolo, and Pinot Grigio as well as an EOS Cabernet and a lighthouse teapot and more. All the folks there were very nice.

The last winery of the day was Tobin James. This was a very nice surprise. We went primarily for the show, but found a very sophisticated and "with it" winery. They had a wine club with over 2000 members and we could join, unlike the clubs at the other three. They send out a spring and a fall shipment each containing eight different wines and a special gift for $110.00 a shot. They ship to all but five states. Some of the selections are wine club and tasting room only as we had found before. One of these was their '98 Barbera Amigo which we picked up along with their '98 Syrah Sky High. But, there's more. Their regular (non reserve) chardonnay every year never see an oak barrel or chip. The '99 called Radiance was lovely, and highly recommended. They also have two dessert zinfandels. Tasted the '98 Charisma Dessert Zinfandel, $20 for 500 ml, and it would pair wonderfully with chocolate cake. They also have a Liquid Love, Late Harvest Zinfandel which runs around $17 for 375 ml. Keep these in mind when we get inquiries on red dessert wines.

We had a late lunch at Cahoots Restaurant in downtown Paso Robles which was excellent, pressed on for Monterey. Just north of town on the east side of Highway 101 we saw expansive new vineyards going in, complete with irrigation and the whole nine yards. They ran for about a mile so must have amounted to 100s of acres. No idea who's outfit it was. Ran into rush hour traffic in Salinas which stayed with us all the way out the peninsula. We had cheese and a bottle of Firestone Merlot in our room that night.

On Friday, we beat feet down to Cannery Row bright and early. Stopped at several shops including a garlic and olive oil shop where we recommended Foodie's book. Hit the Taste of Monterey Wine Store, and were a little disappointed. They did not have the '97 Maddalena Cabernet that the winery had assured us would be there. They did say to check back by phone in a few weeks. Also they gave the distinct impression that they were moving to strictly over $20 wines, which is fine if that's what their clientele wants. It wasn't what we wanted. Had lunch at Cantina El Torito right on the bay. Then proceeded up to the Ventana tasting room a few miles out of town. Their stuff was very nice and nicely priced too. We left with a syrah, a riesling, and an orange muscat that was nearly dry.

That night we went to the Sardine Factory for dinner. We had been told in advance that if you got there between 5 and 6:30 they had an early bird special. Boy was it special. The deal was you picked any entree (they started at $19.95) and you got choice of soup or salad as starters and dessert at no additional cost. We both had the abalone bisque, followed by the grilled salmon in a garlic cream sauce, washed down with a Persidio Santa Barbara Pinot Noir, and ended with a vanilla bean creme brulee. The whole thing with a 20% tip cost $88.89! Did also have to tip the cloak room and parking valet, but it was a fantastic meal for a great price in a four star restaurant. The sommelier in our area of the restaurant(one of five on the staff!) was super. He opened a 1.5 for the table next to us in midair in seconds. We were so impressed that he opened their second bottle in front of us instead of them! He did have the "suit" and the silver doohickey, but was friendly and personable as well as knowledgeable. No, I didn't get his name!

The next day we did Pacific Grove, Carmel, and Carmel Valley. The highlight was the 17 Mile Drive from Pacific Grove, through Pebble Beach, to Carmel all along the shore. It was spectacular. In Carmel Valley we went to the Robert Talbott Vineyard tasting room. We tasted four of his chardonnays and two of his pinots. Of the chardonnays we liked the first one, Kali-Hart Vineyard, and the last Cuvee Cynthia. The two in the middle were too oaky. The Kali-Hart was only mildly so, and the Cuvee Cynthia which was unfined and unfiltered had so much complexity and layers of flavors, that you didn't notice the oak. The Cuvee Cynthia was the finest wine we tasted on the trip, but if we spent $45 on an SW, WW would never forgive us. So, we bought the '98 Kali-Hart which Mrs IK preferred, and his '97 Logan Pinot Noir, Sleepy Hollow Vineyard. A large, late breakfast carried us through the day, so we had cheese and Chateau Julien Cabernet in our room that night.

On Sunday we headed back for LA. Stopped in Solvang (one of my old stomping grounds), spent more money, had a Danish Smorgasbord for midday meal, and stopped at Wine Country the Solvang wine shop that covers Santas Barbara, Ynes, and Maria. We picked up a Zaca Mesa Cuvee which was a Rhone type blend which we had with cheese in our room at Port Hueneme that night. Monday morning we got up at o-dark-thirty, caught a 7 AM flight, and were home in Searsport at 10 PM.