Current Oregon Releases

[Randy Caparoso]

Oregon styles of Pinot Noir are now so all over the map -- as variable as the vintages, and unpredictable as the weather -- that I've yet to seem some real consensus in publications. Come to think of it, it's the same with Burgundies and Californians -- that 's the beauty of Pinot Noir, I guess. I drink my wine young, and so my current favorites are what I actually drink. Each of these were tasted at at least three times or four times:

1. 1996 Rex Hill "Reserve" - there are richer Oregon PNs,and there are finer ones; but this one hits it exactly in between; luscious, lively, layered fruit with wood-stick spices and supple, uncommonly elegant mouthfeel.

2. 1996 Ici La-Bas "Les Reveles" - Extravagantly spiced and silky fine, feminine style; lovely, any-dish vintage for Clendenen; a real crowd pleaser (I can't help but like to see people pleased with one of "my" selections!).

3. 1996 Beaux Freres - Just as thick, concentrated (succulent, almost sweet black fruits) but less imposing and ungainly than previous vintages. Had it with wild boar stuffed with porcini and chanterelles -- dy-no-mite!

4. 1996 WillaKenzie "Pierre Leon" - New kid on the block, but has already achieved great, buoyant balance and a glorious fragrance (sexy, gingery soy, earth, blackpepper, char and sweet red fruits). Yet so delicate, that even a blackpepper crusted salmon nearly overwhelmed it.

5. 1997 Ken Wright "Canary Hill" - Wright's '97s are generally unevolved, but this one is coming out now with a luxurious red/black fruit aroma and fine, soft, silky middle abbreviated by moderate but young tannin.

6. 1996 Chehalem "Ridgecrest Vineyard" - Fascinating smoky/burnt leaf complexity (combined qualities of concentrated fruit and French oak, rather than just one or another); perfumey, fine, long and silky.

7. 1996 St. Innocent "Seven Springs" - Brambly crushed berry fruit aroma enriched by toasty/tobacco-like (and not all that subtle) French oak; fleshy, but also fairly tannic on the palate, but dominated by the sumptuous fruit in the finish. Was terrific with veal cheeks in a braised natural juice/Pinot Noir/sage reduction.

8. 1996 Adelsheim "Ridgecrest Vineyard" - Personally, I think it's Adelsheim, not Beaux Freres, who are making the most controversial Oregon PNs right now; evidenced by this leathery/earthen, nevertheless richly spiced (incense-and-peppermint), lusciously rounded and densely layered fruit. This one definitely needs an earthy dish; i.e. a crab stuffed "portobello sandwich," served in a truffle vinaigrette laced with a Pinot sauce (it worked!).

9. 1996 Erath "Vineyard Select" - I actually prefer this to Erath's current (and much pricier) '94 "25th Anniversary" cuvee; filled with fresh cranberry/blueberryish juiciness with minty/pine needle spice and a soft yet zesty, lithe middle. Try this with an Asian spiced duck (star anise, soy, ginger, fruit reductions, etc.) and you just can't go wrong.

10. 1997 Ken Wright "Guadalupe Vineyard" - Dense, ponderous black fruit aroma emerges after a few minutes in the glass to give defiition to broad, perfectly rounded, fleshy presence on the palate. A stunning combination with French/Asian style licorice smoked squab with a salsify puree with sesame oil accents.

11. 1997 Ken Wright "Canary Hill" - Luxuriously fragrant Pinot aroma that appears delicate and tilted towards red berry fruit; but on the palate, a velvety, layered, melt-in-the-mouth feel couching more black fruit flavors. Needless to say, a dramatic, still evolving wine.

12. 1996 Beaux Freres "Belle Soeurs" -- My current (albeit pricey) favorite just for drinking; its black 'n blue berry perfumes, and dense yet lively, silky flavors simply too compelling to just-say-no.