S. Oregon viticulture

[Cole]

I just got back from a So. OR trip to a number of wineries and have a few strong thoughts. In the next 15 years Southern Oregon is where the real action will be in Oregon. If you are a new winemaker and choose to spend your money buying expensive land in the Willamette, you are kind of forced into a market situation where you have to make the best Pinot noir you can . . . which means you have to reach some pretty high standards pretty fast to remain in business. But, if you go south, you can explore a relatively new area where there is much more freedom to make your own individual mark (and cheaper land prices). The region is rife with undeveloped microclimates, and the potential for new varietals (i.e., not Pinot) is vast.

Here is the perfect example. Earl and Hilda Jones searched the country for the best climate to grow Tempranillo. They found it in Oregon's Umpqua AVA. Now they are making Tempranillo, Cabernet franc, Syrah, Dolcetto, and others that are really turning heads. They are making really good wines that will only get better as they learn their terroir and develop their skills. Oh, I forgot to mention, their winery is Abacela Vineyards in Roseburg and I recommend their wines--especially the Syrah and Cab franc.

Another example. Barney Smith retired to the Applegate Valley (the state's newest AVA) to make wine. He is very small, but making some really nice Cabernet sauvignon and (drumbeat here) Pinot noir, and at exceptionally reasonable prices. These are not world beating wines, but they are excpetionally good for their price (generally under $15).
His winery is called The Academy.

It is sadly true that Southern Oregon lacks viticultural and winemaking sophistication. But this is changing and it is a great region to watch.

A final thought. Don't write off the wineries because you get one of their wines that isn't so great. All of these wineries have some real dogs . . . and a few gems that are worth seeking out. Try the Foris "Fly Over Red" for a good value, for example, even though other Foris wines aren't always great. Personally, I haven't seen any good Chards from here (but Oregon Chardonnay is a story unto itself), but I have found some good Bordeaux-style blends and others. Taste around and you'll find the occasional diamond in the rough.

Don't give up on Sothern Oregon quite yet!!